
Class F\lS. 

Book -G:>79 

GoKiighl N" 

coRfRiGirr DEPOsrr. 



THE • 



Dream- OF "Ellen N" 



r^/ 7 



AN ILLUSTRATED 



DKSCRIPTIVE AND HISTORIC NARRATIVE 

• OF • 

Southern Travels. 



ISSUED fXDER THE AISPICF.S OF THE 



LOUISVILLE ■ AND • NASII\ILLE • RAILROAD PASSEXC.ER ■ DEPARTMEXT, 

LOUISVILLE, KY. 



PUBLISHED 1!V 

JOHN F. C. MLl LLEN, 

CINCINNATI, U. 3 A. 

■l6 15 18&6 I', 






Entered according to Act of Congrkss, in the Vkar 1SS6, 1 

JOHN F. C. MULLEN, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washingtc 

All Ri gills Reserved. 



rUHI.lSIIHR'S NOTICE. 



JN' presenting this book to the public the publisher desires to sax- a few words He 
wishes to call attention to its many excellencies, and the original ideas ,n its'stvle 
"get-up" and contents. As can be seen, the publication of a volume as complete 
as " The Dream of Ellen N." involves an immense amount of labor. Yet labor pains 
or expense have not been spared to make it a success, and the publisher believes that 
It wll be accorded without question the first place among railroad books of its kind 
Well-known a.ui skillful artists have been employed to make the illustrations, and the 
work m this respect is as fine as anything that has ever been .seen in the countrx- No 
finer or more artistic engravings will be found in the "Centurv" or the " Haqjer's " 
M are famous the world over for the beauty and truthfulness of their illustrations 
The names of the artists, which are given elsewhere, will be recognized at once while 
of course their pidlures .speak for them. And not only have the arti.sts been men of rare 
abdity, but the>- have been seconded in their work b>- the engravers, better than whom 
there are none in America. 

The literary features of the volume are not to be forgotten. It is no n,ere guide- 
book, but a most readable history of the Louisville and Nashville Railroad and its m-,„y 
branches. The travels, who reads it has presented to him a truthful picflure of the 
ground he :s passing over, of the cities he vis.ts, and of the people and their various 
pursuits. And on the line of the L. & X. are many fan.ous and historic places which 
are fully described, and the tourist is told in an interesting wav of what is to be seen 
nnd the way to see it. Special attention has been paid to .schools, colleges and educa- 
tional „i.stitutions, which are situated in great numbers along the line of the road, and 
the many watering places and "resorts" are mentioned at length. 

lint -The Dream of Ellex N." speaks for itself It h like good wine in that 
It needs no bush, and words of introduction are unnecessarv. In conclusion however 
the publisher would like to call the attention of railroad corporations to the benefits 
resulting to themselves from such publications, and to state that he has special facilities 
for publishing books of this kind. He is ready to do the work on short notice and 
IS at all times prepared to furnish estimates and designs. He has an organized corps 
of artists and engravers, whose experience in this particular line is most valuable. 
brexcelTed" "' '"'"''''" '" '""'''"•^ ' '-"d.some volume typographically can not 

Railroads thinking of issuing such a publication are respectfulK- asked to con. 
mnuicate with 

JOHN- F. C. MULLEX, P.bllsher. 



JOH.N F. C. MCLLEN, 
sviUe & Naslivine Ticket Offic 

Cl>)ClN.N*Ti,OHIO. 



i.isr ()i- iLi.rsiKArioxs. 

SUBJECT. AKTISTS. ENGRAVERS. 

Louisville & Nashville Passenger Station Robert McFee Mi l\e & Co. 

Along the Short Line T. C. Lindsay Mclue & Co. 

Bellewooil Seminary. Paii. joNFs . . Mi I'ec & Co. 

Crab Orchard Pali. Jonks M Fee & Co. 

Hamilton Female College Albert E. Evans Vi Fee & Co. 

.Agricultural and Mechanical College Albert E. Evans MiFee & Co. 

Home School for Young Ladies \'. Xowotnv ViFee i^ Co. 

Ik-thel College .Albert E. Evans 1/ I!. Hall. 

Dunbar Cave Pali. Jones UcFci- iSf Co. 

Evergreen Lodge Pal'l Jones Mc Fee & Co. 

Clarksville Tobacco E.xchange M. IS. Hali V. li. Hall 

Louisville Hotel \lhkrt E. Evans McFie & Co. 

The Home of " Ellen N." Pail Jones Mi- Fee & Co. 

.Mammoth Cave Paul Jones VrFee & Co. 

Mellbrough's Hill T. C. Lindsay MiFee & Co. 

(Igden College. . Albert E. Evans Mi Fee d-' Co. 

.Southern Normal School and Business College. . . .\lbert E. Evans McFee i2f Co. 

Henderson Bridge V. Novvotnv McFee <2f Co. 

\V. F.. Ward's Seminary for Young Ladies \'. Nowotnv McFee i!f Co. 

Nashville .\liikk r E. Evans. .McFee & Co. 

Nashville by Moonlight Vlbert E. Evans McFee <2f Co. 

Vanderbilt University Robert McFee McFcc <!r Co. 

Sand Mountain. T. C. Lindsay. McFce i^ Co. 

First National Bank of Hirniingliam Robekt McFek McFee & Co. 

The Sunny .South T. C. Lindsay McFee & Co. 

Pensacola B.iy T. C Lindsay L. n. Folger. 

The Homeof Jefterson Davis (.'.A. Ikies . McFee & Co. 

Lagoons by Moonlight T, C. Lindsay McFee & Co. 

New Orleans C- A. Fries McFee & Co. 

Cover. . H, L. Bridwell M li Hall 

Cover. Pail Jones V. /.'. Hall. 




they 
I)ii.-n 



"Well, Bea." 

"Well, brother mine." 

"We've started." 

/^*^Mi IS I spoke the Pullman genth- glided forward and -we had 
^-J st irted on our trip to the "sunnj- southland." I am one 
^^ \ ^ of those Americans who believe that this country- is the 
greatest and grandest that the sun shines upon, and it is 
I p irt of m\- religion to see it and know it before going abroad. I 
belieM tint there are just as many tours, as they call them, in America 
as there arc m Europe, and that thej' are vastly more profitable to the 
touiist for here he is in the land of the living and not wandering among 
the dust\ relics of departed greatness and the mummies of long dead and 
buried enterprise as on the other side of the water. And so when the 
opportunity came during the Christmas holidays to take a trip, ni\- sister 
and myself packed up our traps and started for a ramble over the South 
on the L. & N., or "Ellen N," as we affectionately called the road from the 
ver}- beginning of our travels. Of course there was a great deal of prelim- 
inary planning and much studying of maps before our arrangements were 
complete. In order to make the way easier for other travelers I have jotted 
down our experiences in this book. Cincinnati was our starting point, and 
ill a moment or two we were rumbling over the massive iron bridge that spans 
the Ohio, and the city, with its teeming thousands, ,ind miles and miles of 
noble buildings, was left behind. Cincinnatians see this bridge so much that 
seldom stop to think what a wonderful stnidlure it is, yet it is built to defy time. Its mighty stone 
and iron trus.ses not only bear the trafll^ of a great railroail. but over its -'"'-'- - -Tgre and 




f(K>l-\vays tluTf flow two unceasing stream^ i>i mIikIc.-. and people between Cincinnati and its fair vounK 
sister city Newport. Hut we are fairly across llie Ohio and in the South, and not only in the South but 
in Kentucky, that blissful region of fair maidens and gallant men. And Newport has more than its pro])or- 
tion of beautiful girls and brave men, and it is noted for its blue blooded families and generous hospitality 
as uuich as the other Newport is famous for its summer cottages and gorgeous display. Newport, however, is 
very familiar, for every Cincinnatian visits there, and liea simply remarks on the extreme quiet of the place in 
contrast to the bustle across the river. 

"Look," she cried, "we're running right in the middle of the street, just as though we were in a 
carriage. ' And this is true, for the I,. tS: N. goes directly through the town in a masterful kind of wa\-. not 
skirting it and stealing through the slums and back yards as is often the case in railroad approaches. 

There is onlv a moment's stop at Newjx)rt, and then the train .starts on its piclurcsque run to Louisville 
over the " Short-line." Si.\ miles out is " Latonia" station, and the track and great airy buildings of the Latonia 
Race Course are within a stone's throw. Here it is that the famous Kentucky thoroughbred " Leonatus " ni.nde 
such a wonderful record, while nearl.\' all of the great horses of the country have shown their paces as the\- 
sped rounv'. and round the course. The races are great events and thej- are not only attended b\- the wealth 
and beautv of the three cities of Cincinnati, Covington and Newport, but half of Kentucky gathers to see 
them ; and the grand stand is a brilliant sight on a field-day. Talk about beautiful women! They are there 
by the hundreds, and they are not only fair of face, they are well built, graceful, and as the Kentuckian hor.se 
fancier said, bestowing prai.se with the most expressive smile of which he was capable, "they are more 
symmetrical than a thoroughbred." 

The track at Latonia has a most excellent reputation among sportsmen and it is considered one of the 
finest in the country. The first race meeting took place in June, 1885, and there was a larger continuous attend- 
ance, heaxier purses gi\-en away, and a greater number of thoroughbreds gathered together than was ever 
before known in the South or West, and this auspicious beginning has been of a piece with its succeeding 
history. Truthfully and beautifully has it been written : 

"Latonia — sweet .sounding in name, 
I'aradise of horsemen." 

Latonia has done a great deal, and is doing a great deal, to encourage the breeding of fine horses. It 
oilers that practical encouragement in the shape of financial rewards to the horseman who succeeds in 
developing the fleetest-footed steeds, and it might be remarked that Kentucky has ever been noted for its 
horseflesh. The early X'irginians, who settled the State, were lovers of racing, and they brought their horses 
with them. In course of time the breed was improved by the importation of animals from Pennsylvania, and 
the settlers began to discover that the water and soil of Kentucky brought out the best jwints of horses, 
and that in two or three generations of horses the swift became swifter and the clean-footed, long-necked, 
slim-built, became cleaner footed, longer necked and slimmer built. In fact they awoke to the fad that 
"blue grass" and lime water were making such horses as the world has never seen. 

And Kentucky is one of the great horse growing and horse using States of the I'nion. When the war 
broke out the most daring bands of horsemen came from there. It was there that Morgan organized his 
company of wild rangers, and it was Kentucky horses that tirelessly carried them over field and flood on 
their desperate expeditions. His men were Kentuckians trained to the saddle from youth, and their free and 
easv style of performing cavalry evolutions would have astonished a prime German or English officer. But 
they knew how to manage their horses and they did more execution in a .shorter space of time during the 
war than did any other body of men of the same size. At one time their mere approach threw the whole 
of the great city of Cincinnati into tunnoil, while by one fierce rally they spread terror and dismay through- 
out Southern Illinois, Indiana and Ohio. 

But I am not writing war reminiscences. That must be left to the Century Magazine. I simpl.\- 
started to say something about Kentucky horses and strayed a little from the subject. The rank and file of 
these horses still, however, have occasionally a chance to distinguish them.selves in military ser\ices, for the 
English government buys hundreds of them annually for the army. At the time of the Arabi Bey rebellion 
in Egypt, the English also bought all the Kentucky mules in the Cincinnati market for use in the war. 
So it can be seen that the breeding of horses has been turned to great practical account. Thousands of 
dollars are invested in some of the blue grass stock farms and they are managed with the same percision 
and sy.stem as a mercantile business. 

While we are thus entering and passing through the "dark and bloody ground," as it was called in 
the old Indian days, a glance at its varied history may be interesting. A hundred years ago and more, all 
this region was known as Transylvania, and it was free from settlers of an>' kind. The red men had no 
pennanent villages here but simply roamed through the country on hunting expeditions. Occasionall\ 
white hunters came here, too, and they brought back reports of the beauty and fertility of the region. 
A -. !ii: these eariy comers was Dr. Thomas Walker, a Virginian, who in 1750 journeyed as far as where Lexing- 
ton uow> stands, and his diary still exists. As Shaler, in his history of Kentucky, says: "He seems to have 
been a remarkably intelligent explorer, for he noticed the easternmost out-crop of the Appalachian coal field, 
which so fir is probably the first mention of any fact of geological nature concerning any part of the 
Virginian nmuntains " These early wanderers were all enthusia.stic, and in 1774— June 10 is the exact date— 
the first deliberate attempt was made to form a pennanent settlement. Jr.mes Ilarrod, with forty companions 



an act to prevent profane 
ascertainina; clerks' 
^"'»H. , p istnre) an act for 



sailed down the Ohio to a point near Louisville, and then strikinjj inland they penetrated to Central Ken- 
tuckv where they founded what is now the flourishing and historic town of Harrodsburg. Then came Boone 
and the brave pioneers who followed where he led. In 1775 a frontier congress was held at Boone's Station 
an 1 the following laws were passed : an act to establish courts of judicature and establish practice therein ; 
In act for reguHting the militia • an act for the punishment of criminals ; 
swearing and Sibbath breaking an act for writs of attachment an act for 
and sheriffs' fees an act for to preserve the ran?e 
preser\ing the breed of horses and a game act 

The reader can see th it e\ en m that 
remote day the lioise was dear to the 
Kentucky heai t But the faift that this 
woodland congress w as held and th it 
these laws were passed is all imp rt ml 
in showing the charadler 
of the men who had 
thus ventured into 
the wilderness to 
make homes for 
themselves and t 
carve out a St ite 




% 



UK SHORT-LINE— KENTUCKY BEACH FOU: 



It would be useless to repeat the story of the trials and adventures of these bold settlers. It is a bloody 
narrative, full of border heroism, of midnight attack and murderous reprisal, of snake-like cunning watched 
by unceasing watchfulness and brave endurance, of savage torture and death, and of final triumph for the 
whites. After the Revolutionary war the Indians were driven westward and northward and the pioneers w-cre 
left pra(5lically undisturbed. However, at the very beginning of the Revolutionary struggle, in 1776, tbe name 
of Transylvania was dropped and Kentucky County was officially separated from Fincastle County, Virginia, 
Harrodsburg being named as the seat of government. The growth of the territor},- was rapid, and in 1792 
it was admitted into the Union. Says Shaler : "From the settlement of Harrodsburg in 1774, to the admis- 
sion of Kentucky into the Union, was seventeen years. In these crowded >ears, full of incessant battle with 



the wiUk-nass aiul its IciiaiUs. a struggle in which thoiisamls of brave iiRii fell, a Stale had hten created. 
For nearly one-half the time during which this great work was a doing, the parent colon.\- of \irginia was 
engagetl in a war that drained her energies to utter exhaustion. 

"There is no similar speclacle in histor_\- that is so curious a.s this swarming of men into the wilder- 
ness during the time when their mother country was engaged in a life and death struggle. \Vc can only 
cxjdain it through the intense land-hunger which marks the Saxon people. The thirst for land which 
we find so strongly developed in the Ivlizabelhian English, seems to have been transmitted to Virginia in 
an intenser fonn. Knowing that free lands were to he won by giving life for it, the X'irginia and North 
Carolina peo])le were driven to de.sert their comfortable dwelling places in the colonies for the battle in the 
West. There is no other case where this land-winning motive is so clearly seen as here. All our other 
western immigration has been fostered by the protection of the goveniment. These people could look to no 
protection but what they gave themselves." 

The history of Kentucky until the Civil War is a narrative of uninterrupted prosperity and .steady 
growth. It was marked by tile brilliant episode of the Mexican war, in which Kentucky soldiers i)articu- 
larly distinguished themselves. C.en. Zachary Taylor was a Kentuckian, and the glorious victory at Huena 
Visia was won almost entirely by the regiments from his native State. Of course the history of the Com- 
monwealth in the late "unpleasantness" is well known. At first Kentucky resolved to remain neutral and 
keep invaders from her soil. Uut this could not be and the policy of neutrality was abandoned. The Slate 
stuck by the I'nion, yet more than 40,000 of her brave sons marched away to fight for the Confederacy. 
A still greater number fought under the old flag, but in '65 their battles were over and they returned to 
their homes to live together in the delights of restored peace, confidence and well being. There was no 
fighting of the war over again when the Northeni and Southern veterans came home. Neighbors again 
became brothers and joined in the common cause of making the land blossom as the ro.se, and restoring the 
prosperitx- which reigned before the war. 

.Ml pa.ssenger trains on the "Short-line" make splendid time, and the rapid flight acro.ss a comer of Ken- 
tuckv is hugely enjoyable. I'or four or five miles the road runs near the banks of the yellow and turbulent 
Licking, that fierce little river which occasionally rises in its might and pours its swollen waters against the 
craft lying at the Cincinnati levee, working untold damage and destruction. But just now its muddy current 
looks peaceful enough, and as we rattle across it and plunge into the Kentucky hills we look back and catch our 
last glimpse of the great .smoke cloud — that banner of industrv— which forever hangs above the "Queen Cil.\ . " 

"That is the last of Cincinnati for many a long day," I observe, and then a sudden turn hides Ihe 
smokv cloud. 

The " vShort-line" cuts directly acro.ss the State, making the shorte.st possible route between Cincinnati 
and Louisville. Miich of the .scenery along the road is very fine. Now the train is eur\ing around a hill who.se 
sides are covered with long rows of tobacco plants, while a noble stretch of valley, rich with woodland and 
meadow, is to be seen from the car window ; then it is rumbling aver some high embankment or whizzing 
through a tunnel. Many are the glimpses of beautiful scenery along the road, and the traveler who passes over 
it in the spring time finds it a veritable path of flowers. All the hillsides are radiant with bloom while the 
trees are dressed in colors that might make the gorgeous bird of Paradi.se ruffle his feathers in envy. It 
was at this .sea.sou that our artist sketched the beautiful and restful scene, " Along the .Short-line," which is one 
of the handsomest engravings ever made in America. There are .some very pretty towns along the line which 
are centers of local trade and depots of agricultural products. 

Uut the ride is of truth "short" and almost before we were aware, we were .ipproaching Louisville. 
After leaving La ('.range, which is only twenty-seven miles from Louisville, and which is a nourishing place, 
sid)urban houses began to make their appearance. All this stretch of country is destined to grow, and eventu- 
allv it will be one long, continuous suburb from Louisville. As the city becomes more and more a manufactur- 
ing center, the desirability of living bejond the noise and smoke will increa.se, and as the suburbs follow the 
railroads it is highly probable that .soon this region will be well built up. All the indications point that way, 
and year by year the number of suburban residents grows greater. It is very likely that some day this countrv- 
along the " Short-line " will be as popular as that along the roads running out of Cincinnati. In that great and 
unexprcssibly dirty city the people have found it necessary to seek the countn,- with its freshness and purity, and 
as a consequence the suburiis of Cincinnati are larger than any others in .America. And people in Loui.sville are 
gradually moving out into the "open" in the same way. This region oflTers great advantages to the city 
resident. In the first place it is easily accessible, and then it is high and free from malarial influences. In 
summer it is always cooler than in the city, as the breeze has a chance to make itself felt. Of course it is a 
wonderfully good piace to bring u]) a family of boys, uniting, as it does, all the wholesome associations of country 
life with tlie advantages of the city, while at the same time being beyond its hanuful tendencies. Pewee \'alley 
is one of the prettiest of the suburbs, and it is the home of many Ix>uisville business men. Kentucky College 
is located here, and as a college town it h,%s additional interest in the eyes of the tourist ; then comes .Vnchor- 
age, which is known everywhere through the State, as the Insane Asylum is .situated here. The in.stitution can 
be .seen from the car windows, and Bea and I hardly knew w-hich to admire most, the tasteful building or the 
beautifully kept grounds. 

.\nchorage is a suburb of Ixjuisville and it is one of the loveliest and best known in the .South. Originally 
it was called by the unromantic and prosaic name of Hobbs Station, being called for a former President 



of the Louisville & Lexington R. R. Co. Il.s picturesque and attractive surroundings 
give il a peculiarly liome-like appearance ; and some A-ears since a member of 
Mr. Hobbs' family suggested a change of name, and that it be called 

/,(. Anchorage, as in description of its restful and peaceful surround- 
Vl/ '"S'' The idea was approved, and the station became known 
under its present mme. Many elegant, handsome homes 
h-i\e been eredled here, and it has been for many years a 
great educational center. Dr. H. B. McCoun. 
1 distniguished scholar, founded Fore.st Home 
Academy, a mile east of the station, 
and in twenty years since Dr. Hill 
located Bellewood Seminary near the 
station. Anchorage is also the home 
of Bellewood Female Seminant', 
one of the best known educa- 
tional centers in the South 
-' and West. It is splendidly 




located in a grove of magnificent shade trees and all its environments are unsurpas.sed 
kii ii.ilural beauty and healthfulness. It is several hundred feet above the level of Louisville 
and malaria is unknown. In the immediate vicinity are man^- fine residences, the homes of wealthj- people doing 
business in the city, and who come here to escape its tunnoil and restles.sness in the pure air and quietude of the 
countr5'. And the purely educational features of the institution are all that could be wished. The course of 
study is thorough and complete, while the young ladies are also taught what are known as the "accomplish- 
ments," that is music, drawing, and the polite arts. Prof. R. C. Morrison is the Principal, Miss Pauline Breck 
is the lady Principal, Rev. K. W. Bedinger is Chaplain, and Col. Bennet A. Young, of Louisville, is Regent. 

After leaving Anchorage came another and lesser suburb, and a few minutes more than four hours after 
.starting, we rolled past the houses and fadlories which indicated a great cit}-, and the porter, gathering up the 
ladies' wraps, cried out " Loui.sville." Bea and I had left Cincinnati at 7:55 A. m. and we were in Louisville at 
12:20 p. M. Had we been going directh' through we would ha\e taken the Pullman, but as we intended to stop 
over at Loui.sville we rode in the chair car. seats in which are furnished the patrons of the road without extra 
charge. Tourists who are going through direct, however, can take a Pullman Buffet vSleeper at Cincinnati and 
go without change to New Orleans ; or, they can take it at Louisville and go without change to Pensacola and 
Jacksonville in Florida. 



-^ vONNECTIONS - AT - \ OUISVILLE §;V 



.<<a) ^ynoXVille fine (j^ 

Si.l.li.m it is lliat one rnids a pifllicr or inoiv varied stretch of roa.l tliaii the Kiioxville branch of the 
KUen N. It runs from l.eljnnon Junction, on the main line, through some of tlie most ])ictures(i\ie parts of 
Kentucky, anil passes through some of the wildest and most beautiful scenery in Tennessee, to that enter- 
prising and ever-increasing city, Kno.wille. The distance from Louisville to Knoxville is two hundred and 
sixty-one miles, not at all an insignificant jaunt. In England a road of this extent would be called a great 
through tntnk line; but here, in spite of its miles and miles of gleaming steel, it is only a branch. 

The first large town on the road, after leaving the jundlion, is Lebanon, with about three thousand 
inhabitants. It is a flourishing place, well supplied with churches, .schixils and manufactories; and, being 
in the center of a rich fanning countrj-, it boasts an extensive trade. 

Heyond Lebanon the traveler notices those peculiarly sharp, conical hills called "knolis" hy the natives. 
Their summits against the horizon look like the teeth of some gigantic saw, or like the waves of the 
ocean in a choppy sea. 

At Danville Junction, four miles .south of Danville, the track is cros.sed hy the Cincinnati Southern 
Railroad. There is but little need to speak of Danville, that ancient place of great renown, from who.se 
schools have gone so many of the distinguished men of the State, and among whose residents are the fore- 
most families of Kentucky. It is a town where wealth, education, culture and trade have long centered, 
and it is a lovely place beside. Near Danville Junction are the famous Alum Springs of Kentucky-, whose 
curative powers have long been well known. Annually they are visited by hundreds, who either seek 
bodily relief, or, in the peace and quiet of the place, recruit their wasted strength. 

Stanford, one hundred and four miles from Loui.sville, is a town which is steadil\- growing, and is 
now of considerable importance. All around lies one of the fme.st grazing countries in the world — a perfect 
sea of emerald fields — whose possibilities have as yet hardly been attempted. 

And now the road begins to enter the mountainous region of Southeastern Kentuckw and the track 
winds around steep hills and through rocky cuts, like a vast metallic seqient. At Riolunond Junction 
passengers change cars for Richmond, which lies but thirty-four miles to the north. 

-'KsGrah Orchar^I^- 

Wliat Saratoga is to New York, the While Sulphur Sprin.us to \'irginia, that is what Crab Orchard 
in to Kentucky. And not to Kentucky alone; for the fame of the Crab Orchard .Springs, and the beauty 
and attractiveness of their surroundings, everj- year brings hundreds of visitors from the neighboring States. 
Nowhere in the Union is there a more charmingly lovely spot than here ; while the .soft and lazy summer 
climate is a balm to the weary body and tired mind. The springs are about a mile distant from the 
little town on the railroad, in a valley which is so extensive, that, were it not for the spurs and foot-hills 
running into it, it might be taken for a plain. Far away can be seen the blue hills, mist\ by reason oi 
distance; and all around is a country which is a living harmonv in color. 

Here it is that, regularly as the summer comes, that the beauty and bravery of the country gather. 
And the merry-makings that absorb old and young, the moonlight rambles, the long daylight walks, the 
]>leasant drives, the joj-ous pic-nics. the gay dances, the innocent love-making— who can describe them.' 
Vou that have had the exquisite pleasure of spending a season at Crab Orchard know of its delights ; and 
know that it would be vain for me to attempt to tell of its numberless pleasures and attraiflions. Those 
that come here, brain-worn and wearied b>- the busy and pressing world, find the ver\- atmosphere of the 
place contagious ; and they give themselves up wholly and unreser\-edly to the enjoyment of the passing 
hour. As the pcx-t says, they "leave cark and care behind." And who could have a care at Crab Orchard.' 
Care is banished, and joy and mirth rule supreme. 




"his excellent engraving gives the stranger some faint idea of 
the beauties of the place and its romantic surroundings. The tree- 
ined, shady walks, " leafy arcades, " as they have been called, are 
wonderfully inviting, while the less pretentious paths, winding down 
<> the various springs, seem to repeat to the strolling couples that 
•two is company, three is a crowd." At least they have been made 
with such designuio skill that often thev are onlv wide enough for two. and this is the reason that the young 
people pair off so naturallv ; and, speaking of pairing off, they do say that there are more matches made 
durinc- the season at Crab Orchard than in all the rest of Kentucky put together. But tins is probably only a 
base rumor, gotten up to frighten tinii.l mammas and suspicious papas. Xeverthck-ss. if it is true that 
matches are made in heaven, then this delightful resort can la>- claim to being an earthly paradise that 



iinilalLS ht-avcnlv ways pix-Uy closely. But the SiJiings arc not only famous as a pleasure resort; they are 
almost iKtter known for their health-giving qualities. Those who are troubled with their digestion— that 
awful bugbear of motlern America, and of which our forefathers were more or less ignorant — find almost 
immediate relief; while others, afflicted in did'ercnt ways, are signally benefited. These Springs are sn 
numerous and so varied in chara<5\er that the invalid is indeed difficult to please who can not be suited. The 
lipsom Spring is even belter than the famous fountain in England, from which it takes its name. Then 
there are Chalybeate Springs of various strength, combined with sulphur, while the purity of the mountain 
air is an able auxiliary to the waters. The hotel.s are excellent, the company is at all times of the best, 
and the man or woman who has ever visited Crab Orchard and not been hugelj' pleased is unknown. 



We furnish an analysis of the principal mineral wat- 
ers of Crab Orchard Springs, taken from the second 
report of the C'leological Sur\ey in Kentucky, b> 
David Dale Owen. Composition on the basis of one 
thousand grains. 

Tllb: BROWN SrRl.NC.. 



Held in solution 
by Carbonic .Acid. 



Carbonate of Iron. 

■ Maganese. 
l.ime, 
-Magnesia, 
.SiiiphaUul 

" l.inic, 
■ I'otash. 
Chloride of Sodium. 
Silicia, - - . - 
Moisture and loss, 



0.02.S I 
.OOi Held in soil 

■_ I in tlic «ai 
•"" byCarbonic, 
.020 J 
.112 
.015 
.02S 
.018 
.046 
.053—0.442 grair 



.\.mi:kic.\x i-I'So.m si-rino. 



TIIIv VIV.IA) SPRING 

Carbonate of Iron and M.ngancse. 0.015 

■ Lime, - - - '^O 

■ .Magnesia. ■ .131 
Sulphate of ■ - - .066 

• Soda. - - .024 

" Potash, - - - .022 

Chloride of Sodium. - .008 

Silicia. .041 — 0.446 grains. 

The free Carbonic .\ci(l present was not estimated. 

11()W.\KI) Sn.PIIUR WELL. 
Carbonate of .Magnesia. - 0.065 I Held in solution 

• Lime. - - - .015 ) by Carbonic Acid. 

.Sulphate of Magnesia, ■ - .012 

■ I'otash, - - - .008 
Alumina and trace of I'hosijhate, .002 
Chloride of Sodium. - - .017 







,.,S.«KVV 


0.. 




Silicia, - - - - 
Moisture and loss. 




.022 
■ .025—0 


.164 grains. 


Carbonate 


of Lime, 


0.506 ) 


Held 


in solution 














• Magne.sia, - 


- -375 t 


by Carbonic Acid. 




TIIlv C.Rl 


)\i-: 


SPRINC. 






•• Iron, a trace. 








Carbonate 


of Iron. 




- 0.021 1 




Sulphate < 


)f Magnesia, 

■ Lime, 

■ Pota.sli, 


2.9S9 

- 1.566 

.298 








• Lime. 
" Magnesia. 




- .005 1 
■'95 1 

- •04" J 


Held in solution 

in the water 
by Carbonic .■\cid. 




" Soda, 


- .39S 






Sulphate ( 


jf 




- ^056 






• .Sodium, 


1. 000 








" Potash, - 




- -013 




Silicia, 




- .021 — 


-7 ■■53 


grains. 


Chloride c 


)f Sodium, - 




■013 






Bromine a 


trace. 






vSilicia, 






- .040 — 


1.3S4 grains. 



The waters of which the foregoing exhibit shows the medicinal ingredients, are considered remedial in 
"Bright's Disease," affections of the bladder, skin, diseases of the bowels, neuralgia, scrofula, convalesence 
from typhoid and malarial fevers, female diseases, general debility, etc., under medical advice by the resident 
physician. 

At Broadhead the hills and the mountains really begin to show themselves in something like grand fonns. 
as the train winds in and out of deep passes, and the eye confronted by high cliffs, glances occassionally, up 
deep, rocky glens, fringed or almost curtained by the thickets of cedar and laurel, and beneath these are dis- 
cerned brawling and foaming torrtMits, dashing along over pebbly and stony beds, as they seek their way to the 
larger streams below. From the edges of the great solid walls of rock, two on either side, which border the 
track, and above, we come upon small but lieautiful cascades of crj-stal water, tumbling down mossy fronts 
of cliffs, each one of the.se a picture, which, could it be faithfully given, would be a welcome contribu- 
tion to the wealth of fine landscapes for which our country is already noted. 

Livingston, one hundred and forty miles from Louisville, is a place of great promise. Coal lies in 
all the hills around, and iron abounds. The coal is being mined quite extensively. The timber iii the 
vicinity is of the be.st, and as yet the ax of the woodman has not shorn the hills of their native beauty. 
The town lies at the meeting-place of the Roundstone Creek and Rockca.stle River, which is crossed by a 
fine iron bridge. 

All the country through which the road now pas.ses is filled with coal and iron. Lonilon, one hundred ami 
fifty-seven miles, will probably be before long a great mining center. This is the place where tourists take 
way for 'Rockcastle Springs," eighteen miles distant, and which are delightfully situated in a pleasing country. 

Williamsburg is the last large town in Kentucky. After leaving it the ro.id traverses a broken and 
ever-picture.sque country, which is filled with surprises and delights for the eye of the traveler. The valleys 
are exceedingly rich, and all kinds of crops (lourish. 



Kno.willc, the metropolis of Eastern Tennessee, speaks for itself It is a trim, liusy cit\-, filled with vim 
and enterprise. Here are the East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia, and the Kuo.wille & Charlestown railroads, 
which, in connection with the L. & N., give the town excellent railroad connections. It would be idle to 
say that Knoxville is bound to be an important place. Geographically it is a center, and man has done his 
I)art to further its development. It has manj- factories, and its trade is large. But these are facts which 
are so well known that to repeat them is almost like saying that New Castle is well supplied with coals 
One of the famous products are the beautifully variegated Tennessee marbles, which have been used to such 
good purpose in the Capitol at Washington, and the New York Capitol at Albany, not to speak of scores 
of other magnificent public and private buildings. The location of the city is rarely lovely. All around 
it rise hills, and the diversity of vale and upland is chaniiiugly picturesque. 




Walking up Bioad\\a> m Lexington, the 
most conspicuotis building which catches 
the eye is the Hamilton Female College, 
which is one of the model educational in- 
stitutions for 3oung ladies in the countr\-. 
It is attended by students from all over the 
land, but more especiallj' from the South : 
and the work that is done is really excellent. The Faculty, numbering thirteen, is made up of skilled 
and long-experienced instructors, who enter with a warm sympathy into the aims and aspirations of the 
pupils. It is this that makes a home-like atmosphere pervade the college, and takes away that hard, dr\ 
officialism which too often renders school uninviting. The site of the college is magnificent, overlooking, 
as it does, all of Lexington ; and no pains have been spared to make the grounds attractive. The structure itself 
is thoroughly modern with every comfort and convenience that is known to the architect or house furnisher. 



'riiis loail runs from I.thaiion, KL-iiliuk\, on llic Kiioxvillc lint.-, lo ('.ri.<.iisl)iirt;, alioul llurlv-oni; iiiik-s 
ill a southerly direction. It jiasses throu}?li an excclknt ajj;ricultural country. Campbcllsville. nineteen 
miles from tlie startinjj place, is a pretentious and thri\infr town. Creenslnirg is a lovely rural community. 
It has no faclorics, but does a larj.je business in the jiroducts of the localit\-. 



-^(^ar^d^town f 



ine©^ 



Twenty-two miles south of Louisville, on the main line of the I.. & N., is Hardstown Junction, and 
tlie town of that name is .seventeen miles to the southwest. Three miles out on the branch is Clennont. 
where is situateil one of the finest quarries of stratified limestone in the world. The stone is very easily 
quarrietl and readily worked when first removed; but it hardens by exposure. Much of the stone u.sed iii 
the buildinjj of the bridffe across the Ohio at Louisville came from here, and it is in con.stant demand. 
The quarries are owned by the railroad company. At Xazareth is a flourishinjf Callu)lic female seminar\ , 
and a very imposing collection of l)uildiii.us. Hard.slown is a jjlace of about two llumsaiid five hundred 
inhabitants. It is substantially built, is the local metropolis, and is quite an educational center. 



.^(^loomRelcl £ine 



&$^ 



Bloomfield is an active. a<,',iCiessive little cily, forty-five miles south of .\nchora>;e. on the L. >.V .\ 
vShort Line, where the cars are taken to reacli il. .Sliell)yvil!e, nineteen miles, is the ]>rincii)al and largest 
town on the road. It does a coniinercial and manufacluriug business, and is well finnislK-d with educational 
institutions. It is in fact one of the towns which is noted throughout Kentuck\ for push and energy. 



.^Gla^^ow fineg^ 



Glasgow is ten miles west of C.Ia.sgow Junction, ninety miles soulli of Louisville, on the main line of 
the L. & N. The ro.id runs Ihiougli a rather hilly coiintrw though it is extremely fertile. ("dasgow is a 
thrifty, .solidly-built town, which covers a great deal of ground— all of the inhabitants being believers in 
the divine right of having just as large yards as may suit their fancy. It is a great shipping point, and 
the people for fifty miles around regard it as a center. Not far distant are a number of petroleum wells, 
whose product is about five hundred barrels per month. Glasgow is well supplied with all that ministers 
to the needs of modeni and higher civilization, and it has an expanding future. 



Ifexin^ton h 



This is a very important and niucli-lraveled road, running from \"adens. on the Short Line, through 
the State capital, Frankfort, to Lexington, which is situated in the very heart of the world-famous blue gra,ss 
country. The distance from Louisville is ninety-four miles. Frankfort is a trim little city, which is thronged 
with statesmen and visitors during the .sessions of the legislature, while the .State offices always make it 
a center of political interest. Among the most noted of the public institutions is the penitentiary, which 
has gained a national reputation during Gov. Blackburn's administration. It is almost superfluous to say 
aught about I^exington, the .second capital of Kentucky, the family home of Henrj' Clay, and the city where 
the aristocracy of the .State gather annually at the races. It is the capital of the blue grass country, and is 
famed alike for beautiful women and fast horses. It is no discredit to mention them both in the same 
breath, for the blue grass horses beat the world, and are second in a Kentuckian's aflections only to the 
ladies of his native State. 

Then, too, Lexington is a great educational center. The Agricultural and Mechanical College of 
Kentucky is situated here. It is a State institution and has an ample endowment, which promises much 
for the future. Its buildings are located in what was once the City Park, a noble stretch of land con- 
taining fifty-two acres, which was given by Lexington to the State. The site is elevated and commands 
a good view of the city and surrounding couiitr\-. A new college has been erected, containing commodi- 
ous chapel, society rooms, lecture and recitation rooms sufTicient for the accommodation of six hundred 
students. A large and well -ventilated dormitory has also been built, with rooms for ninety students, for 
the use of the appointees sent by the Legislative Representative Districts of the State to the .scientific or 



classical departnients of llie college, and containing suitable dining-room, kitchen, matron's and sen-ants' 
rooms. The natural confoniiation of the ground, and an abundant supply of water from the Maxwell 
vSpring, render the construction of an artificial lake, with boating course a quarter of a mile in length, 
comparatively easy, thus providing for a beautiful sheet of water to add to the attractions of the landscape. 
For the accommodation of students sent by the Board of Examiners appointed by the Court of Claims, 
as beneficiaries of the Legislative Representative Di.stricts of the State, rooms for ninety students are pro- 
vided in the dormitory. To these good, substantial board is furnished at $2.25 per week, payable in advance. 
Students lodging in the dormitory furnish their own rooms. Good boarding, with fuel, lights and furnished 
room can be obtained in private families, at rates varying from S3.50 to $5.00 per week. In all cases where 
students can at all afford it, boarding and lodging in priv.nte families are recommended. 




.\GRICri,Tt"RAL .\XD .MECH.VXIC.VL COLLEGE 
OF KENTUCKY. — LE.XIXGTON. 

^^" "■ The necessar}- expenses of a student while at 

__ -- college need not exceed the following estimates. 
As a rule, the less pocket-money allowed by 
parents or ^u n 1 tl pupil When supplies are kept short, the opportunitj- for 

contracting \ilious habit', is LoncbpoudnigU diminished. Students should be allowed by their parents to 
create no debts. The necessary expenses for the college year are S133.50. The course of study at tlie college 
is very much like that of other similar institutions, except that a great deal of attention is paid to the 
really practical branches, while the course in mechanics and agriculture is exceptionally thorough. Pro- 
vision has been made to assist .students who wish to "work their way along" by a system that in reality 
amounts to a limited number of free scholarships. This is a college which is thoroughly in accord with 
modem ideas and the genius of our American civilization : and on that account alone it is assured of an 
ever-expanding growth and increasing influence. 



of all wx-U-kiiown private educational institutions in Louisville, the best and most noted is the Home 

School, at No. 717 Third Street. Miss Helle S. I'eers is the I'rincipal, and the Hoard of Trustees is made up 

of the followinj^i; gentlemen, wlio.si- names are all familiar: Messrs. \V. Cieo. Anderson, Joseph B. Kinkead, 

K .V. Robinson, Steiihen R. Jones, John 15. Temple, James W. Tate, 

J. M. Robinson and H. \V. Oray. Miss I'eers is a member of the 

i;i>iscopalian Church, and the school is under the particular pat- 

nmage of the Bishop of the Diocese; yet there is entire freedom 

as to the opinions and religious worship of the pupils. It may 

III- well to obser\'e that several diflerent denominations are rep- 

! . >i.nted by the Tni.stees. Last jear the Faculty consisted of four- 

1 11 teachers, and of the one hundred and twenty pupils sixteen 

\i.re resident boarders. The chief chann of the school is the 

jhtful air ol home which pervades it, and the refining influences 

lich penneate and radiate from it. All that is uplifting and 




HOME SCIIOOI, FOR VOUN't 



.onSVILLE, 



exalting is thrown about the young ladies; and the fa(5t that the first people in Louisville send their daughters 
here to be educated speaks volumes for its high character. The class of pupils who attend here is of the 
very liest, and the associations of the school are all that could be wished. There are a number of scholars 
who board in the institution, though the number is limited ; and these find school life as delightful as the 
loving care and watchful attention of their teachers can make it. In regard to location, no adjectives are 
too superlative. Third vStreet is a magnificent thoroughfare, lined with noble residences and beautiful with 
spreading shade trees and spreading lawns. It is, in facl, an almost ideal city street ; and the Home School 
is on just such a street as one would like to live, and in just such an attractive place that one would choose 
for a residence. All its surroundings are in keeping with its name, and it is in every way an excellent and 
thoroughl> complete institution— such an institution as is fitted for the education of young ladies. 



..^ 



Citieinnati, foLii^ville and Cnempl2i^ f}\)^'S^ 



'IMie name of this line, ti 
Memphis, via Louisville, ami W 
The traveler on 

hundred and eighteen from Louisville, a sma 
Juncflion, and here the Memphis road leave 
direction. JNIucli of the ^ 
Cumberland and Ten 



use a very slang phrase, "gives it away." It runs from Cincinnati to 

distance betwec^i the two cities is four hundred and eighty-seven miles. 

the EUenT " has noticed, two hundred and twenty-eight miles south of Cincinnati, and one 

11 station with a number of side tracks. This is Memphis 

=3 the main line and runs toward the Mississippi in a southwestern 

scenery on the route, especially in the vicinitj- of the 

> nessee ri\ers is extremely picturesque, while the 

'1^ '2^ >& country for the most part is rich and fertile. At 

^^€f - ^f^^^ - -5te^ South I'nion. eleven miles from tlie 

*^"«^ , -^ '^"'Ci ^ i^^ Junction, three Iiundred and twenty- 

-*!^^' """ *£:,- t£^*^ -i5? ^Slr*!*'^ nine from Cincin- 

iti, is a strong 

■.Shaker vSettle- 

ment," with 




BETHEL COLLEC.I 

buildings, neat out houses and extensue and well planned ground^ 

The thrifty .sect have a model farm and do a large business in canned ■„,,.,, 

and dried fruits. Of course, the place will well repay a visit. Nestled among spreading trees is Uethe! College, 
at Russellville Kentuckv, while the beautifully-kept grounds around the buildings at once impress the visitor 
with the fad that the spirit of neatness and order rules in the institution. The location is excellent, and 
students throng here from all over Kentucky and Tennessee. For years the attendance has been steadily 
increasing, which in itself bears witness to the solid merits of Bethel College. One of its features is that 
mini.sters- sons and students for the ministry are given tuition free, while the latter receive forty dollars a 
vear additional (if needed) from the Enlow Fund. 



kiissLllvillc is a place of some picttiisions : aiul its silualiuii, in Uic- la.ul uf one of the best faiinin;^ 
rey:ions in Kentucky, is favorable to its growth and continued prosperity. It has a population of two thousand 
five hundred and is constantly growing. Bethel and Logan Colleges, and a theological school, are situated 
here ; and it is a center of culture and refinement, as well as of trade. 

«« (31arksuills»* 

On the Ivast bank of the Cumberland, just above the mouth of Red River, Clarksville is reached. 
It was the judicious eye of John Montgomery that first discovered in the rugged hills that lie in the fork 
if the.se two streams a superior site for the location of a town. January, 1-S4, John Montgomery and Martin 
Armstrong entered the tract of land on which Clarksville is located. Anustrong laid off the plan of a town upon 
it. They named the town Clarksville, in honor of (leneral George Rogers Clark, a distinguished soldier of 
that day, who was personally known to many of the early .settlers of Tennessee and Kentucky. After the 
town had been laid oft", the proprietors sold a considerable number of lots, and the purcha.sers being desirous 
that the town should be established by legislative authority, the C.eneral Assembly of North Carolina, in 
November, 17S5. est.nblishcd it a town and a town common, agreeable to the plan, by the name of Clarksville. 
What became of the town common does not appear. It was the second town established in Middle Tennessee. 
The Commissioners appointed were John Montgomery, Anthony Crutcher. William Polk, Anthony niedsoeand 
Carduer Clark. In 1788 a tobacco inspection was established at Clarksville. This was by an acl of the General 
Assemblv of North Carolina, and was the first tobacco inspection established in Tennessee. The fact is only 
remarkable as showing how early the cultivation of tobacco came to be an important industry around 
Clarksville. and as marking the inception of a tobacco market, which may still claim, with justice, to be 
the first in the .State. In this year also the county of Tennessee — the original name for Montgomery county 
—was established. There is nothing of the "mushroom" about her growth; and to-day Clarksville, as a 
colleclion of men, is one of the most solvent towns in the whole country. Situated in the center of a wide 
belt of the finest lands in the United States, on which is produced every variety of cereal, besides the great 
.staple of this country, tobacco; with railroad and river connexion with business points North, South, East 
and West ; surrounded by an industrious, energetic and intelligent people, whose school-houses crown even,- 
hill and dot every valley — we say, with such a business con.stituency, Clarksville pos.sesses advantages owned 
by but few towns ; and her solid growth, from a trifling village into an important city, has not been 
accidental, but is the result of natural causes. The population of Clarksville is now about seven thousand, 
including the suburbs, which, from their contiguity, are naturally a part of the town. It may not be as 
large as Rome was in the palmy days of Augu.stus ; but in the matter of hills it beats the famous "seven" 
all hollow. This is a thriving little city, and it is one of the great tobacco markets in the West. The river 
and the railroad have both combined to produce this favorable result. Then, of course, the adjacent country 
is celebrated as a tobacco-growing land. Clarksville is .solidly built, and its business blocks and large ware- 
hou.ses speak very forcibly of its go-aheadness. The general trade of the city is ever increasing, and the 
commercial tourist finds it one of the most fruitful tarrying places in Eastern Tennessee. 

->« Dunbar (2au@j>i<- 

Chief among the attracflions of Clark.svilk- is Dunbar Cave, one of the largest blowing caves in the 
world. By that is meant that a steady stream of cool air pours out ot it summer and winter its temper- 
ature is the same, and this mighty and never-failing draft is in itself wonderful and ine.xplicable. But the 
cave is of immeasured extent, and its possibilities as regards size are as great as Mammoth Cave. Each 
year new discoveries add to its extent, and it may be that the gigantic natural catacombs undermine the 
whole region. But be that as it may, the cavern is singularly beautiful and it has never-ceasing attrac- 
tions for the touri.st. Tho.se who have traversed its echoing galleries, dimly lighted by the torches of the 
guide, have watched the play of the grotesque .shadows flung on the walls by the moving lights, have 
listened to the resonant falling of the subterranean waters, and heard afar off" the cry of some .stranger 
broken into a thousand faint yet clear echoes, can never forget the impression made upon the inner senses. 

But to return to the more practical affairs of life. The cave was di.scovered >ears ago, and held by 
its owner at such a fabulous price that none could afford to buy. At his death it fell into the hands of 
the present proprietors, who have built a hotel, improved the surroundings, and nmde the environments of 
the place all that could be wished. They have also taken .some very commendable liberties with the entrance 
to the cave. Once on a time it was a mere hole in the ground ; but, by removing the debris, which had 
been accumulating for ages, the entrance has been made grand and imposing. A magnificent arch of solid 
rock springs over it, while beneath is a splendid level floor on which hundreds can dance at a time ; and 
they can dance there on the hottest day in summer, for the breeze from the dark depths of the mysterious 
cave forever keeps the temperature at 56 degrees. Invalids coming here find the air from the cave a great 
restorative, while Idaho Springs, but a short walk from the cave, are in themselves a cure for many of 
the ills of which flesh is heir to. There are five distinct springs of mineral water-s— red sulphur, white 
sulphur, chalybeate, magnesia and alum— all of .superior character, and possessed of many curative qualities. 




DlNiJAIi CAV 



The Cuinberland is crossed on a splendid bridge, and then the road runs i>ver the river " bottoms" for 
a long distance on a high trestle, which is far removed above "high water mark." The rains may descend 
and the flooils xua_\- come, but travel on the I, iS: N. will not be interrupted. There is a very pretty stretch 
of road along the river, which the iron track follows for nearly twetity miles, and then it runs through a 
broken country to the Tennessee river, three liundred and thirty miles, which is spanned bv another mag- 
nificent bridge with an iron "draw" in the center. The view at this point is grand, and the Tennessee is 
seen to the best advantage. The country beyond is well limbered. 

As we go South there are evidences that we are in a land of cotton. Cotton fields lie on the track 
of the road. .\l Paris, three hundretl and fifty -six miles, there is a large cotton factory. The town has two 
thousand inhabitants, and the three staples— com, cotton and tobacco— are the exports. McKenzie, eighteen 
miles be>»nd I'aris, rejoices in a population of one thousand, and has two colleges— one a Methodist and the 
other a Cumberland Presbyterian, a sect which is very strong in this locality and in many other parts of the 
South, notably Texas and Arkansas. This is the crossing-place of the Nashville iS: St. I.ouis road. 

At Milan, three hundred and ninet>-four miles, the Chicago, St. Louis & New Orleans road crosses. 
The town is rapidly growing and is building up finely. 

♦« HurnIi>olt»«- 

Ilumbolt, four hundred and five miks, is slightly larger than Milan: and, like it, another railroad, 
the Moliile cS: Ohio, cro.sses the I,. cS: N. within its limits. The town covers a great deal of space; but 
it is very pretty and attractive. Large quantities of fruit are raised in this neighborhood; and at Gadsden, 
five miles beyond, this is an all-important enterprise. Strawberries, raspberries, pears, peaches, plums, in 
fact, all kinds of fruit grow as perhaps they grew in the Garden of Eden. Tliej- attain a delicious perfection, 
and year by year more and more fruit is being shipped to the North. An estimate was made some years 
ago, and it would be much larger now, that in one \ear the people around Gadsden cleared sixty thousand 
dollars from their fruit-crop. Frost never injures the fruit, the climate develops it; and. what is just as 
important, the L. & N. funiishes the best of facilities for carrying it to the North and Ha.st. It has been 
found that fanns which have been overworked and run out in the cultivation of cotton and tobacco, raise 
most excellent fruit, while this rotation of crops gives the land the needed ojiportunity for recuperation. 

Brownsville, four hundred and thirt>- miles, is a large and handsome town, which is considerably 
elevated alxjve the surrounding country. Its trade in cotton and other agricultural staples is large and 
growing, while its manufacturing interests are fast increasing. Brownsville Female College and the Wes- 
leyan Female Institute are both situated here, and are schools with far more than a local reputation. 

Just beyond the town of Big Ilatchie the railroad cro.sses the river of that name. It is a tributary 
of the Mississippi and is navigable for a number of miles. And now the road runs through a level strip 
of country, past a -number of small stations. 

Bartlctt, four hundred and .seventy-six miles, is reached. It is more in the nature of a suburb than 
aught el.se. Then the track runs in sight of the National Cemetery, and its high fiag-staft' lifts the stars 
and .stripes above thousands of soldiers who fell fighting beneath them. This great burial-place, with its 
massive gateways and splendidly-kept grounds, is at all times interesting. 

•>!^Msrnphis w<- 

But a few miles further, and Memphis, four hundred and eighty-seven miles, is reached — the depot 
being almost ui)oii the banks of the mighty father of waters. Memphis is a city which .speaks for itself 
In spite of two visitations from that dread scourge, yellow fever, it has continued to prosper. That which 
was imperfeift in its sanitary arrangements has been corrected, and the unhealthy places have been made 
healthy. The stranger walking along its bustling streets, sees no evidence that the city has ever suffered 
in any unusual way. Kven,thing speaks of activity and enterprise, which has had the encouragement of success. 

Cotton ma\- almost be said to be king in Memphis, and cotton seed, oil cake and meal products reach 
an amazing amount. Then there is a large trade in grain and fann .staples, while it has the wholesale 
trade that naturally comes to a great city. In a word, Memphis has risen superior to disaster, and is 
thriving and growing rich. 

One of the signs of the times is the recent erection of the magnificent cotton exchange, which is 
one of the finest commercial buildings in the country. In this way the merchants of the city have organ- 
ized methods of controlling trade and making it flow through their hands. They realize that the situation 
of Memphis makes an extensive territory of the most fertile lands in the world tributary to her; and that 
if they but make the effort the country will yield them its fruits— and the men of Memphis are not the 
men to let an opportunity slip through their fingers. They are wide-awake, pushing and abreast of the 
times. Of late vears the city has been almost entirely rebuilt, and it is altogether modem in appearance. 



T. . A both bv river and rail has steadily grown, and a wider field of enterprise has now been opened 
Its trade, both ^ > "^^ f *; ™ ^'^^^f^.^^.^ing 'its raw products, instead of sending them away to be manu 
since Memphis has taken to "'•^"^^'*""""- ^^^^^^1 impression that the city was unhealty, and, indeed 

^t:^^lro^^^'^^"^^ ^ ^-™-^ --- "^ -- and surface^ drainage has 
removed this objedlion. The death-rate and m 
hcaltliN as the great majority of cities. 



licipal tables of mortality show that Memphis 




IS situited rn i 
northern suburb 
of the clt^ of 
ClirksMlle ind 
IS about ID nun 
utes \\ilk from 
the corner of See 
nd and \\ anklin 
Sts The Lodge 
IS the propert\ ol 
L >pt J J Crusman 
n whieh is his resi 
•a fit abode for i 
millionaire— nestling as ''*' 

it does xmong man^ fine sp^e 
niieiis of e%ergeens from which it de 
I nes its euphonious appellation Th 
fitness of the location for a nursery 

flower-garden may be seen at a glance, 
liom the facT: that the magnolias of Florida 
and spruces of Nor%vav flourish side by side, being 
in that happy medium of latitude where the rich and xaned 
lloral treasures of the South meet in gorgeous arra>- their "\o- jf"^^-^ ^^!^^ 
hood of the North. The flower-garden and nursery composes about fifteen 
" t cultivation. More than half is devoted to flowers. Carnations, roses 
chrysanthemums, tube roses and dahlias are grown by the thousands; palms 
S ferns are also a specialty, geraniums in endless --ty ■;-\- ^o" ,a 
general assortment of rare plants as is to be catalogued by any of ^y^Z:^^';;^'^:' ^^. 
targe importations of bulbs are received each fall ^7^ Holland^ \t"w^^^^^^^ ^^^.^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

flowering shrubs and fruit trees are all grown for sale ^'^J^'^^'f^ ^l^'^^'^^l ^ l.rge area of glass in 
patrons in all the Southern and Western States. Five ^^'f J^^^^'l'^'^'^J^^^ 
pits and frames is constantly in use in raismg and propagating oung plant Jor t P ^^^ 

of shipment. Their catalogues are replete with mfonnation as o tl- -t n nt ^^ 

mailed free to all applicants. What the Champs E y.ses is to 1 ans, LentuU 
mount to Philadelphia, Evergreen Lodge is to Clarksville. 



New York 



vill be 
and Fair- 



The Tobacco Exchange building at Clarksvillc, Tennessee, was erected by the Tobacco Board of Trade, 
and is perliaps the handsomest building of its class in the State. It was built, in the best possible manner, 
of brick, with stone facings and trimmings,' and roofed with slate and iron. The building contains a large 



purposes, and 
thirty thousand 



salesroom, lighted from the roof, as well as by windows; a handsome hall for general 
eighteen rooms for general offices. It was erected at a cost of .some twenty-five to 
dollars, funiished by the volunteer contributions of the .sellers and 
buyers of the market. Tobacco sales range from two mil- 
lions to two and a half millions of dollars. Tl 
are nine stemmcries and prizing houses, who 
handle from three to si.\ million pounds, 
according to the crop and prices. The 
tol)accoof thisseclion is composed mainly 
of tho.se grades and types most popular 
in foreign countries, and but little is man- 
ufactured for .\morican use. Under the 
progre.ssive spirit of the age, which leads 
demands to seek the fountain-head as 
closely as possible, the representatives of 
nearly ever\- countrv in Europe are to be 
found at this Board during the season, seek 
ing to secure their supplies; and 
orders are being filled at the 
same time for Great Britain, 
Italy, France, Germany, Aus- 
tria, vSpain, Switzerland, Bel- 
gium, Holland, and frequently 
orders from Australia, Africa, 
the West Indies and Mexico are 
filled here, besides a fair amount 
taken for different parts of the 
I'nited States and Canada. 

And, speaking of tobacco, it 
is interesting to note the fact 
that its production is increas- 
ing year by year. Formerly 
it was thought that tobacco 
grown out of \'irginia and 
North Carolina must of neces- 
sity be an inferior article; but 
this idea is now relegated back 
to the dusty recesses of once 

popular fallacies, and the fact 

" ^ , ' , , , ci,.\KKSvii,i.i: TOB.vccn r\ui\\' 1 II.!;. texn. 

IS everj-where acknowledged 

that tobacco grown in the West is excellent, posse.s.sing distinctive and lim. qinlun..-, oi Us own. Kentucky 
now stands at the head of tobacco-producing States, Mhile Tennessee ranks fourth, with good prospects of 
doing better in the near future. In faefl: the great crop of Kentucky is tobacco, and its yearly value is 
$11,089,782, or just about one-thirtieth of the entire property in the State returned for taxation. According 
to the latest and most trustworthy statistics, there were in Kentucky 226,120 acres of land planted with 
tobacco last year, producing a total of 171,120,784 pounds. Think of it! Enough to keep an army smoking 
for a campaign of a hundred years! In Tennessee the average was 41.522, and the number of pounds pro- 
duced was 29,365,052, the value being $1,538,757. 

These few fa(fls and figures .show .something of the importance of the crop, and the amount of capital 
invested in its culture; and, looking at it from a national stand-point, in 18S2 the internal revenue receipts 
from tobacco were $47,391,989— enough to pay the salary of the President of the United States 947 times and 
still have something to spare. Not only was this amount collected, but 472,661,159 pounds of leaf tobacco 
were exported, which enormous quantit>- was valued at $36,624,357. These latter figures are taken from the 
census of 18S0; and, as the trade has been growing, it is fair to presume that over $45,000,000 of "the 
weed" is now annually sent abroad. 

The kinds of tobacco grown in different localities vary greatly. For instance, in Pennsylvania the 
great thing is 'Havana seed tobacco," which, in other words, means tobacco grown from seed brought 
from Cuba. Most smokers are ignorant of this fa(fl, and imagine that Havana seed tobacco means that 
the seed is in some way mingled with the natural leaf. In Tennessee the trade caters to the foreign 
market, and the great bulk of the tobacco grown is exported, while the reverse holds true in Kentucky. 
And the most promising thing about this great industry is that the land suitable for tobacco-growing is 




not yet half utilized. There 

is ever greater and greater ; for men 

meals three times a day— 



still an ahundance for the new-comer. And not only that, hut the deniand 
^viU smoke, just as they xvill fall in love, and just as they eat the.r 
and thev won't stop until the crack of doom. 




The stranger gets a good idea of the^ 
great Louisville Hotel by the faithful 
illustrations of the artist. It is a mas- 
sive building on Main Street, in the most 
central part of the city ; and the mighty 
Doric pillars at the principal entrance give 
it a distinctively southern look. Theoffice 



is a lort\ 

apart mtnt 

with the tessa 

lated marble floor 

broken by rows of large white columns 

it a cooland breezy appearance. This is on 

the famous hotels in the vSouth, and all I 

famous men who have visited Louisville h .\ 

been its guests. It is thoroughly modtrn <in 

complete in all its appointments. ReccntU 

has been thoroughlv refurnished and biu'htciu 

up without and within. The table is noted f. 

its excellence, while the service is mechanical 

its perfection. Travelers say that half the chn 

which had ..rfe hi,.o,y for .he .S...e of Ke,„„cky : »<! ,f *'« J''}'^ , »' ' ^, .f^^,;^^^^^^^^ 



LOUISVILLE HOTEL.— LUUISVILLK, KY 



The Courier-Jourual building; in Louisvilk- is not only the hirjjest and most admirably equipped news- 
paper establislunenl in the South or West, but is also a ^jrand and conspicuous public edifice, at once worthy 
of the city and fully adequate to the uses to which it is applied. The building is located on the south-east 
comer of Fourth Avenue and Green Street, in the very center of the business portion of the city. It occupies 
a frontage of one hundred and sixty-five feet on l-'ourth Avenue, and on Oreen Street a frontage of eighty-six 
feel six inches. The space covered by the building on the ground floor is fourteen thousand one hundred 
and seven feet, and the basement .space measures twenty-one . thousand feet. The building is five .stories 
high, with a Mansard roof and corner pavillion, and measures ^ se\ent.v feet to the lower roof cornice, and 
to the apex of the Mansard roof eighty- - ^ *^ 

nine feel four inches, and to the lop of 
the pavillion one hundred feet four inches. , ~"^ 

The present Courier-Journal building was 
commenced July 14, 1874, and 
was conipleted and occupied on 
May 16, 1S76. The cost of this 
magnificent stniclure, includ 
ing the ground on which it is 
creeled, was over one-half mil- 
lion dollars ; and the pluck .ind 
ner\-e to put this large amount 
of money into a building de 
voted in the main to newspaper 
purposes is fairly indicatn e of 
the man who has made a pros 
perous and permanent success 
of the great newspaper of w Inch 
he is the head. The fine busi 
ness capacity, .skillful luanagL 
inent and untiring energj ol 
Mr Walter N. Halderaan, Pres 
ident of the Courier-Journal 
Company, has made theCouner 
Journal the leading newspapti 
of the South, and one of IIk 
representative journals of the 
United Stales ; and al.so one of 
the best -pay ing newspaper 
properties in the land. Much 
of the prosperity and national 
repute of the Courier-Journal, 
however, is to be ascribed to 
the political acumen and bril- 
liant writings of its editor, Mr. 
Henry Watterson, who is a 
leader among the journalists of 
America, and who has done 
much to place the paper he 
edits with such marked ability 
in the foremost rank of the great newspajKi . .>. i..^ .,a> . In the selection of a plan for the Courier- 
Journal building, Mr. Haldeman, who has alwaj'S lieen a strong advocate and friend of ever.\' measure tending 
to advance the prosperity and interests of the city of Louisville, did not confine him.self to what would 
simply supply the necessan,- space and qualifications for business incident to the publication of a first- 
clas.<' newspaper ; but, with a generous foresight and deservedly successful issue, he has succeeded in fur- 
nishing the city of Louisville with a magnificent arcliilectural structure, a monument alike to his good 
taste and far-seeing judgment. Such a building, which may have served the purpo.ses of the Courier-Journal 
for years, could have been erected far below the actual cost of this building ; but this alone was not sufficient 
to .satisfy Mr. Haldeman as to what the future should be of the representative journal of the South and South- 
we.st, but with a liberality of means, as well as views, he erected a building upon a plan of unexcelled magnitude 
—a building unsurpa.ssed for mechanical skill or artistic design. 




riLDIXG.— I.OVISNII.I.K. 



^)^ 



?^^-^-;^' 




\1, wh ,t I eitx It IS ' V ol\ W 1 N ^ 1 Inmst to the point of i,lulaliy by its people, and 
ktt;aclion. for the Msiting stran -e, h.tuated on the du-id.ng hne of the North and 
Southern and jet distmctneh Northern Its cituens have the warm li^a^s and 
generous hospltaht^ of the Southland vvhile it has the go-ahead-ness, push and energ. 
that belongs to the North I tlnnk peopk ^^as Bea's sageobser^'atlon, after we 
had been sho^^n .round the citv ^^ho h.^e fncn.ls to visit in Louisville ought 



which ha 
vSonth, it 



, a thousani' 
is e-minenlh 




to be \ er\ happ\ \^^l^ , here we ha\ e been ^ isitmg 
at the house of a friend and \et\\e ha\e been treated 
— like princes ' But even the unknow n stranger finds 
LouiSMlle pleasant enough, for the hotels are exeellent, and 
theie is a \\ anuth and heart} genuineness about the inhabitants 
^ that IS reassuring There -was much in the city -which 
\\e found entertaining In the first place there was the town 
Itself with Its fine Citj Hall, Court House and other public 
buildin^rs while Fourth street has ^"^ charms that are unfading. It is one of the finest residence streets 
in America. Not only that, but it has a character of its own and on that account can not be compared to 
Fifth Avenue, New York, or Commonwealth Avenue in Boston, or to the suburban drives of Clifton, adjoin- 
ing my own Cincinnati. It is lined on either side by splendid residences, dwellings which for attraclive- 
ness and magnificence have hardly a parallel on this continent. 



Tliey arc all (lelached and surrounding them are lawns as smooth as landscape gardening can make them, 
and in the summer time they are bright with flowers. A double row of trees shades this grand thoroughfare and 
adds materially to its beauty. At the end of I'ourth street are the grounds of'the .Southern Exposition, which 
are well worth a visit. Hut I'ourth street is not entirelj- given up to residences, as at its lower end it is a great 
place for business, and many of the stores are remarkable for their size and the completeness of their appoint- 
ments. The Courier-Journal OlTice is on this broad avenue, and above its main entrance is a statue of Prentiss, 
tile first great editor of the paper, whose mantle has fallen upon the shoulders of Henry Watterson. It is quite 
a work of art and it is probable that your Louisville friends will tell you long stories of Prentiss' wit and 
oddities. Certainly they told Bea and myself so many, that if I were to attempt to repeat them, this book 
would have to be enlarged to the size of Webster's I'nabridged. Then of course before we left Louisville we saw 
the Falls of Ohio, which give the name of the Falls City, and the great canal which has been built around them. 
In high water steamlxiats go over the falls, but in low water this is altogether too dangerous a proceeding. 

As to Louisville's enterprise and the extent of her manufacturing industries, I need say but little. Her 
thousands jf factories, great warehouses and extensive freight depots speak for me. They tell of her material 
prosperity and wealth, of her commercial greatness and progress. And as a railroad center she has no equal. 
She lies midway between the Atlantic and the cities of the West, and is the geographical radiating point for 
the lines of the North and the South. 

And now Bea and I, our visit at Louisville finished and my observations over, are en route again. This 
time for Nashville, Tenn., with a stop over at Mammoth Cave. As we slowly make our way out of the city, the 
train passes the immense workshops of the L. & N., where an army of workmen are eniplo\ed, and then after 
passing factories, and rows and rows of houses, we make our first stop at South Louisville, where the through 
Pullmans from Cincinnati are taken on, and then we rapidly proceed on our way. It is a pleasant ride. At 
first the road leads through level farming lands, dotted with thrifty-looking houses in the midst of orchards 
and well kept fields. At Lebanon Junction, the Knoxville and Greensburg trains leave the main track. A 
few miles further and the country changes. We run through rocky cuts and around the crests of hills 
green with cedar. Now we are crossing a loft\- trestle beneath which flows a clear stream, and as the train 
winds in and out we catch many a glimpse of bits of difficult and picturesque engineering. .Meanwhile the 
porter passes through the car, and Bea exclaims : 

"Look, brother mine, the porter is lighting the lamps in broad daylight. What is it for? " 

A moment after and we ninihle through a tunnel and the mystery of lighting the lamps at noon-day 
is explained. Had it not been done we would have Ixen left temporarily in total darkness. 

•>« @lizaKsthtov/n ix" 

One hundred and fifty-two miles from Cincinnati. This is the first important .stop after Louisville. It is a 
thriving place with many industries, and is also a countj- seat. 

Beyond Hlizabethtown the country grows more and more broken. Wooded "knobs," or shai-p pointed 
hills rise abruptly, serrating the horizon. The valleys make many turns and occasionally the land is flung aside 
by a bare crest of rock, whose jagged masses lie exposed upon the ground. It is a region in which Nature 
seems to have indulged her love for the unusual, and as Bea .stands at the rear door of the car and looks out 
upon the landscape, she remarks that the only thing necessan.- to complete it is a cave. And the cave is there 
in Mammoth Ca\e, whose limitless caverns stretch awa>- in unknown and undiscovered vastness, and whose 
thousand beauties and unprecedented extent make it one of the wonders .of the world. It is reached from 

•>i<3 (3a US (3ity tx<- 

This is a little village eight3--five miles from Louisville and one hundred and ninety-five from Cincinnati. 
Eight miles to the west lies the cave which is reached by a stage ride, o\er a road «hich reminds one of the 
hymn the colored folks sang at camp meeting. 

"Oh, de Jordan am a hard road to trabble." 

It certainly is a rough road, but the tourist can paulon its discomforti^ as the .scenerv is new and 
charming, and it gives him an appetite which is positively ravenous. But at the jouniey's end is an excel- 
lent hotel, a long, rambling, two-storied wooden structure, where the traveler is kindly cared for. A poet 
might rave over the untold loveliness and unspeakable mvsteries of the cave, which is so rightly named 
Mammoth, but I am no poet. Let me say that the half was never told. No guide-book c.in do the great 
cavern justice, and no one can speak too highl\- of its wonders. I have never yet heard of a tourist who 
visited Mammoth Cave and was disappointed. No m.itter how great may be one's anticipations they fall 
far short 'of the glorious reality. Vou who visit the Cave can obtain volumes of information on the .spot 
and your guide, for no one is allowed to venture in the cave without a guide, fairly overflows with narratives 
of the underground reces.ses in which the torch makes a "dim, religious light," and even the most inquisitive 
find in him all they can possibly wish to know. .\n(l you who do not visit the Cave can have no adequate 
idea of its mar\-els. 



As to the expense of a trip to the wonderful cavern it depends altop;ether upon what the tourist is pleased 
to make it. The L. & N. sells tickets to the Cave and return, so the traveler can at all times proceed upon a 
certainty. Not only this, but special rates can be made for parties and unusual inducements are offered in 
this direction. The rates at the hotel are exceedingly reasonable, not being based upon the fashionable "water- 
ing place " tariflf, and the e.xpense of a guide is trilling. Of course the larger the party the smaller the cxpen.se. 

Bea and I were with a party of six others, making eight in all, and one guide answered for all of us. 

We spent but a single day and a night at the Cave, and more time could liave been spent profitably in exploring 

the mighty chambers which Nature has constructed with such massiveness in the very heart of the eternal hills. 

• Well, Rea," I said as we regained the light of day after the everlasting darkness of the Cave, " what 

impressed you the most?" 

" Kver>thing impressed me. Let me see, there was the Rotunda, the Tea Table, the Gothic .V venue, the 
Bottomless Pit. and that horribly dark and sullen river Styx, and then there was the Church with the I'ulpit 
and Altar. I guess I was as much interested in tlie .story the guide told about the Church as in anytliing 
else. It was about a beautiful young lady who promised her dying motlier that she would ne\er wed an\- man 
upon the face of the e.irth, and if .she broke her promise all her fortune would go to another heir. And when 
she fell desperately in love, she came here with the man of her choice and was married with gorgeous pomp 
and ceremon_\- in the Church. So she kept her word and her fortune, for she did not marr>- a man upon the 
face of the earth, but in its bosom. I guess that .story impres.sed me about as much as anything." 

.\s Hea is a romantic young woman she is to be forgiven. But evervthing in the Cave is so man-elous 
and utterly strange that it is impossible to tell what plea.ses one the mo.st. As for myself there was nothing 
which did not chanu me. Hcho River is told by Emily Thornton Charles in charming verse: 



ECHO RIVER-M.V.MM 



11 C.vVE 



Sunbeams never mystic river 
Nor the moonbeams, o'er tliee quiver ; 
Not the faintest starlight gleam 
Shines above thee, sombre stream. 
Night-enshrouded river Echo, 
Mournful dirge so sadly low, 
Loudly clear, or soft and low, 
Singing as we gliding go — 
O'er thy waters silent flow 
Comes the echo—" Lo ! " 
See the shimmering shadows playing, 
Born of torchlight's fitful swaying, 
Cast upon the cavern wall- 
Cast o'er Echo River Hall, 

Hear the echo call, 

Answering echo— "All!" 

And the boatman, standing grimly, 
Throws a shadow weird, unseemly. 

On the rocky space. 

Strangely out of place. 
As it were a network ghastlj — " Lace!" 
Bright-winged birds have never Hown 
O'er thy waters dim and lone; 
Shores of earth with flowers o'ergrown- 
Mossy banks, lo, thou hast none; 
Only walls of solid stone 
By the great Creator hewn— 

By His powers alone, 
Round thy waters—" Lone I " 

Wavering shadows weirdly falling. 
Seem as spirits beckoning, calling, 
Calling through the echo voices. 
Strangely awed, our soul rejoices. 
As 'twere voice from heaven calls us; 
Heavenly majesty enthralls us. 

Now from dome and wall surrounding, 
'Gainst the massive rock resounding. 

Hear the echo 

Come and go ! 
Long we Kaze in silent wonder. 
We of earth Ihou'rt gliding under 
Through the rock reft wide asunder. 

O'er thy watery depth rock-girten 
Plays the flickering light uncertain. 
See o'er dome and caverned hall 
Tracery of mystic scroll, 
God's underwriting on the wall, 
All His work; His-" All I" 



Harken, now the voices singing. 
All the echoes backward bringing. 
As a grand triumphal ringing. 
Every sense with rapture filling 
Like a thousand harp-strings thrilling— 
Every breath to silence stilling 
Joy divine is o'er me stealing. 
And a bliss profound 
Echo tells me— "Found " 
In the echo sound. 
Long the sweet refrain will linger, 
As the trace of fairy finger. 
Rising now in fuller volume, 
Answ'ring from each arch and column. 
Joyous peals of music ringing, 
As it were the angels singing. 
Loud, resonant, rising higher- 
Melody of heavenly choir- 
Is it this 1 hear? Say, is heaven near? 
This the spirit sphere? List the echo— "F 

To my mind this ti 

Know I now by tliL 

Words that die will live again. 
And the grand resurgence rolling. 
All my inner soul controlling. 
Echoes ever o'er the river. 
Stirs this thought within my brain 
As long as a loudly-echoing strain: 
Words may die yet live again- 
Fairy river, gliding, going 
Through the cavern, winding, (lowing 
To the wondrous realm beyond. 
Here my thirsting soul hath found 
Peace my longing soul had wanted ; 
ouelled arc doubts that evetinie haunte 
Thou has taught me more than sages 
By thy rocky clifts of ages ; 
Taught me more than storied pages; 
Led me to the opening portal: 
Proved the soul to be immortal; 
Brought of knowledge's mighty store 
Hidden in mysterious lore : 






Echoing thoughts 
E're unto my mind recurring. 
Evermore this truth averring. 
Thou hast taught by sure refrain 
Echoing dying words so plain, 

I shall die yet live again, 

Dying be my — "Gain." 







MELLBROUGH S HILL. 



And now we again turn our faces southward toward Tennessee and the inviting countr\- that lies 
be>-ond it. But the region through which we are passing is singularly picturesque, and the landscape is 
varied and ever changing. One of the most lovelj- spots in all Kentuck\- is Mellbrough Hill, which is 
circled by the L. & N., and of which a charming and truthful sketch appears above. The artist took 
his view of the hill from its base, where flows one of those clear, noisy, babbling streams so common in 
Kentuckv. But in places the landscape is less bold and striking, and a softly undulating country is seen. 



wliich is ilotud Willi wliitc fanii lioiiscs. Sloiie walls diviili; the fieUls, which look particularly neat after a 
dreary monotony of rough rail fences. The region looks peaceful enough now, but once it was marched 
over and over by the contending anuies of the Blue and the Gray ; and many were the fierce skirmishes 
in this iniine<liate vicinity. And while on the topic of the "wah," as the colored people say, it might 



be remarked that this branch of the I,. & N 
around Nashville and Chattanooga. The 
the old iron rails and 



|)layed a great part in the campaigns 
id wasn't then what it is now, 
but indifTerently-built road-bed 
ere not at all condu.sive to 
fast time. It is said that 
upplies were over a week 
in going from Cincin- 
nati to Nashville. In 
the first place they were 
taken by river to Louis- 
then the J- were 
loaded on the cars 
and started for 
Xnsliville. What 
.\ ilh bad rails, 
crowded 
tracks 




OGDEN COI.I.KGE. — BOWLING GREEN, KV. 



f(.w swilchcs, and then the con- 
st itit fc irthat bridges had been bunied 
ui tnck torn up, it was necessary- for 
tliL liains to crawl. When it is re- 
iiKmbtied that at that time this was 
the only trunk line running North and 
South through Kentucky and Tennes- 
see, it can be seen at a glance that its 
possession was of the utmost import- 
ance. Yet the traveler over the L. & X. 
to-daj^ finds no reminiscence of that 
fierce and bloody time. There is not 
even the last lingering vestige of war. Were he to ask the train men of the battles along the route, and 
of the way tlie road was utilized to carry the amuiiilioiis of war, it is probable that he would receive 
<)nl\- the vaguest and most indefinite of answers. The_\- may liave heard of such things, but they are already 
ancient histor>- ; they are dead issues that are forever at rest. 

The above institution reflects great credit upon Bowling Green, K>-. Ogden College was organized 
and established in 1877 a. n. by the liberal endowment of the founder, Robt. W. Ogden. The College is 
for boys and 5'oung men, and is fully equipped with an able faculty, and with all the usual means and 
apparatus of a first-class college, and confers full collegiate honors. By the wise and munificent endowment 
of the founder, R. W. Ogden, and the bequest of John K. Robinson, education is offered free to any boy or 
young man fnini Kentucky, no charge of any kind being made, except a matriculation fee of five dollars per 
session ; to students from any State other than Kentucky only a tuition fee of fifteen dollars per session. 




SOITHFRN NOI M\l SL 
BOW I P 

Iliib institution tliL SiutliLrn \onnal School 
and Business College located in Bowling- Green 
IS the larcjest I^ormil School in the South and if 
it keeps on at its present rapid rate of growth i1 
soon surpass the lirgest school of its class in the 
tr\ It^^as established in iS;^ and after a few ^e'lls( t 
trial and discouragement from those %\ ho did not under 
stand the scope of the \\ork it entered upon a success, 
whose genuine qualitj speaks for itself and so greath 
has the Normal Department flourished that a Commer 
cul Depirtment Ins hecn added uid %ounj; people are ii 
gn en a thorough and pradtical business education 



A place dear to every Kentucky heart. And a charming little city it is. It is the home of many old 
families, and many of its citizens have risen to distinction and national reputation. It is a place cherishing 
genuine culture in its mid.st, and a home of education, as here is situated Ogden College and the Southern 
Normal Scliool, two institutions with a widely extended name for thoroughness and general excellence. 
The little metropolis has a fine new Court House and a number of handsome churches. I say metropolis, 
and do so advisedly, for the thriving city has followed metropolitan ways and is supplied with all "modem 
improvements." Its Water Works are admirable, and the green mound of the reser\-oir. rising high above 
the city, is a striking and beautiful object. Bowling Green is also conspicuous for its enterprise, and it 



has a iiumlur of mills and iiianufactorifS. There is one handle factory alone, the handles being made of 
Soulhern hickory, renowned the world over for its exceeding loughness, which pays annually for slock and 
wages no less than §200,000. The river which winds around the city is the Big Barren, a poor name for 
a stream flowing through such a fertile land. And, speaking of the Big Barren, the question immediately 
comes to the mind of the stranger as to how it was named. The answer is simple. When the carlj- settlers 
came to this part of the State they found it treeless. All the rest of Kentucky was covered with beautiful 
and thick-growing forests ; but here it was a vast and wide-e.xtended prairie. It was covered with verdant 
grass, and great herds of buflalo roamed through it. But tho.se old pioneers did not know that prairies 
were rich and fitted for agriculture; and, becau.se there were no trees in the region they concluded that the 
soil was too poor and sterile for trees to flouri.sh, and .so they called the place the " Big Barrens." That 
they were very much mistaken in their ideas is shown by the fact that this part of Kentucky is as rich a 
section as is to be found in the Stale. Vet still the name of Big Barrens sticks, just as the name of the 
Batterj- sticks to what was once the Battery in New York, though for years it has been nothing more 
than a landing-place for immigrants. It has been prettv conclusively shown in recent years that the trees 
were bunied ofl" of this region by an immense forest fire, kindled, as has been suggested, by the Indians, 
who wished to turn it into a great meadow for the buflaloes. 

Four miles .south of Bowling Green is Memphis Junction, where the soulh-bouiid trains leave the main 
track for llie great cotton and commercial market on the Mis.sissii)])i ; Iml more of this in rinothcr clia])Ui. 

*« Rraqklin si* 

This is a flourishing town just twenty miles from Bowling Creen, ;nid its rival. The people of the Iwo 
places are very jealous of each other, something after the manner of Si. I'aul and .Minneapolis, hut it is a good- 
natured, chivalric emulation. Franklin also has a good Court House, two e.\cellcnt colleges and a number of 
thriving industries. When we left Franklin, Bea inquired of the Conductor when we would cross into Tennessee. 

" The State line," answered the man in the blue coat and silver buttons, " is between Mitchellville and 
Richland. The first town is in Kentucky and the .second is in Tennessee. No, there is no wall between the 
States and it is pretty hard to tell where one leaves olT and the other begins." 

And Bea was ver\- much disappointed when she found out there was nothing to mark the boundary of the 
two great States. There was much more timber to be seen in Tennesee than in the State which we had just 
left, and when the pine woods of the North are exhausted, the lumber men will find a har^-est awaiting them 
here. Already the lumber industrj- is very important, and it is increasing rapidly. 

->« Gallatin ^'• 

This was the first large town in Tennessee, and it is a thriving place, being an agricultural as well as a 
manufacturing center. A very imperfect idea of the place can be got from the station, as it lies back from the 
railway track, and trees and rising ground shut out the \-iew. 

And now it is but a few miles further and we near Edgefield Junction, the country becomes more thickly 
peopled, and at last Bea points out a grand building which lifts its lofty cupola from the suinmil of a distant hill. 

" What is it .' " she exclaims. 

"That's the Capitol of the State of Tennessee, Mum," replies the porter. 

And the great structure looms up more grandly as we approach it, while everywhere the factor\- chimneys 
and great business blocks are to be seen. Edgefield is just across the Cumberland River from Nashville, and 
while it is a busy, bustling place, it might be called an " overflow " town. The train only stops a minute, and 
then we are rolling across a splendid iron bridge, while the swift current of the Cumberland is far beneath us. 
It looks narrow when compared to the Ohio at Loui.sville, but it is no insignificant stream, and the steamboats 
which ply upon it add many thousands of dollars yearly to Nashville's wealth. 

" But look," my sister cries and .she is raptly gazing out of the window, " look at the long sweep of the 
River between its high, steep banks. They are almost precipitous, and see the great hills in the distance which 
shut in the horizon. Oh, it is lovely ! Then just look at this Suspension Bridge in front of us which runs down 
hill. That's funny." 

And it does run down hill, for one bank is higher than the other. But I hardly have time to smile before 
we are in the long depot at Nashville, and as we gather up our various belongings there is the metropolitan 
greeting, " Cab. sir. cab. sir I this way to the bus ! Express, sir, carry your baggage to any part of the city," 
and so on. Ad infinitum. 



Tliis line is three liundred and ten miles in k-n>jtli and passes through some of the finest land in 
all Kentucky- and Illinois. There is a constant succession of thriving towns along the route. Leaving 
Nashville, the main line of the L. & N. is left at Edgefield Jundion, and the road runs, as a sailor would 
sa\-, directly Northwest by North. Springfield is passed and the Guthrie, where the jMemphis road crosses 
the track. The line now goes through that portion of Kentucky known as the "Barrens." It is not called 
that because it is barren and sterile, but because of a queer mistake made by the early pioneers. The region 
was a vast prairie, and they ignorantly supposed that there were no trees, as the 

soil was too poor to bear tli^ 
wooded, while the richness 
prosperity of the region 
that it is not barren, 
five miles from 
the Che-sapeake 
the travek 
evidences 
in a coal 



L\-er, the countr}' is well 
he farms and self-evident 
.ire sufficient evidences 
rtonville, ninety- 
Nashville, where 
& Ohio crosses 
es marked 
that he is 
region. 




Long trains of '■black diamonds" lie at the sidings, the coal shafts are to be seen, and as the train 
whizzes through the cuts, the black strata are visible, pressed between the grav shale and rock. Henderson 
is fifty miles further on. It is a large, well-built town and a center of trade for all the countr\- round. 
Here the new bridge, spanning the Ohio river at Henderson, Ky., is one of the finest structures of the 
kind in the country. Its length proper is 3,686 feet ; but the approaches, which are elevated on trestles to 
be above high water, will make its length in all four and one-sixth miles. The bridge proper is con- 
siderably shorter than the Louisville and Jeflfersonville bridge, which is 5,220 feet long- but which is, with 
Its graded approaches, only 7.750 feet in length. The Henderson bridge has the longest triangular tni.ss- 



.sij.in in the world IkIwclii Uie central piers, which allows 525 feet clear channel for steamers. The bridge 
crosses the river from the center of the thriving cilv of Henderson, which has at present a population of 
alx>nt eight thousand, and which has Ijeen growing rapidl\- during the past three >'ears. Fonnerly the railroad 
conne<flion between IIenders<»n and Evansville, on the Indiana shore, was made by transfer barges. The 
building of the bridge will save alx)ut si.\ hours of time between Chicago and Southern ])oints, and obviate 
a tedious delay that has existed for many years. The distance by river is twelve miles, but the railroad 
route between the two cities is now about fifteen. To accomplish this great piece of engineering required 
an immen.se outlay of money, which \v:is supplied through the issuing of bonds ; the Ijonded debt thus con- 
tracl.eil aini)\inting to two million dollars, while the stock debt is placed at one million. The cost of the 
bridge complete, including its approaches and 
the oonnccling track, is placed at three million. 




^•'Tt-t..c< 



E. WARD S SliMIN-.VUV FOR YOUNG LADIKS— N.VSHVILLE TKNN. 



.\mong the long established educational institutions ot Xa.shvillc is W K. Ward's Scminar\- for Young 
Ladies, which has been in successful operation for the la.st twenty years Its location at No. 15 Spruce street 
is one of the most eligible in the city. The idea of the founder was that one of the great needs of the land 
is a more practical preparation of the daughters of our countr\- for the real duties of life, and in supplying 
this want the Seminary has been created. Its success has been phenomenal. Recently it has been found 
necessar>- to add another building, four stories in height, which is connected with the old edifice, and is 
lighted with gas and heated b>' a common fire- proof furnace. This school has no sympathy with co-edu- 
cational ideas. It is pre-eminently a school for girls and everything in it is adapted to them and to their 
special educational needs. In this way the Faculty think that the best results may be obtained, and they 
bend all their energies in accomplishing this end. 




OME people," 
I observed to 
Bea after we 
had pretty thoroughly "done" Nash- 
ville, "find vers- little interesting in 
a modern, wide awake, live American 
town. I suppose they think they are 
too ever} -day ish, too new and all of a 
piece to have anj-thing in them worth 
seeing. Now, what do you think?" 
"I think Nashville is just too 
lo^ely. I don't know anjthing about 
till- ever\-dayishness, as you call it. 
but I am sure we have found it verj- 
mteresting. ' ' 

"Just too lovely" is a woman's 
expressive way of saying that some- 
thmg is delightfulh- charming, and 
Bea hit the nail on the head exactly 
with vL-ard to Xashvilk-. I suppose most tourists like ouisc \ es urst Msit the Capitol. As we walked up 
one of The hillv avenues leading to the building %se passed an old fashioned Southern house, with a great 
veranda upheld' by Corinthian piUais. There ^^as nothing particularly remarkable m the house, unless it was 
its venerable aspect, but in the garden in front was a marble monument. There was a great stone platform in 
the center of which was a huge white block of marble, while four beautiful carved pillars supported a massive 
roof. We gazed at it from the street, then entered the gate, above whose iron posts is perched the American 
Ea<'le and coming near the monument we read that " Beneath this .stone rests the body of James Knox Polk 
Tenth President of the U. S." This is engraved upon one side of the block in the middle of the platform, and 
upon the other side is an inscription brieflv .summarizing the life of the distinguished Tennesseean. This 
modest house was his home, where his widow still dwells, and he went from here to the White House. 
Here he returned to end his days and here in the ver>- .shadow of his own home and the State Capitol where 
he finst won distinction, he will sleep until the "heavens are rolled together as a .scroll." 

Then we passed on to the Capitol which crowns a high hill encircled b>- the city. It is a tremendously 
lar-e .stone edifice and ever%- side is the front. That is, there is no distinction, as each of the faces of the 
buildings is complete, and all alike have a high, pillared portico, which is reached by massive steps. Immedi- 
atelv about the Capitol is a prettv park, with wide flagged walks and occasional fountains, while on one of the 
lower levels, for the park is arranged in a series of rising plateaus, is a statue of Tennessee's most distinguished 
son. also a President of the United States, Andrew Jackson. It is an equestrian statue of "Old Hickor>-. 'and 
it is identically like his statue on Pennsvlvania Avenue, Washington, and the one in Cathedral Square, New 
Orleans In fact all three statues were cast in the same mold. It is fitting that the statues should be in 
Naslu-ille where he sensed his State in various capacities ; in New Orieans, which he so successfully defended 
in the war of 1812 • and in Washington where he governed the nation and uttered the famous words which have 
since become historical : "The Union must and shall be preser^'ed ! " This is the thrilling sentence engraved 
upon the pedestal above which the hero's steed is rearing in a very warrior-like .style. 



"Ainln.\v l<)i>ks vi.T\- miK-li as if hu was j^oin^r t<> slip over liis horse's tail," said Hea, as she L-xaiiiined 
the statue. "llusiil" 1 exclaiiiieil ; "that is a work of art. ' 

"Well, it looks that way, anyhow," she replied, with a woinan's inborn persistence. 

And while speakiny; of the most famous of Tennessee's sons, it is well to pause before his statue, in 
the shadow of the Capitol, and take a hurried glance at his career and the growth of Nashville in and since 
his life-time. He came here in 17S8, as public prosecutor of the Superior Court of the Western District of 
North Carolina. (Tennessee then had no separate existence.) He was a young man, having just passed 
his twenty-first birthday, and Nashville was a wild frontier settlement, wliich was daily menaced by hostile 
Indians. It was in facl nothing but a collection of log ctbins, with one larger and more commodious than 
the rest were. Court was held, and it took its name from one Nash, an early settler, whose dwelling stood 
on one of the high blufTs overlooking the town. As yet the territon*- was only a district of North Caro- 
lina ; and there is a tradition that when the convention met at Kno.wille in 1796, to frame a constitution 
for the State of Tennessee, Jackson ])roposed that the newly-made member of the Union should bear the 
name of the river flowing through it. Certain it is that before that time the territory was never railed 
by that name, and Jackson may as well have the credit for its felicitous title as any one else. As public 
prosecutor Jack.son was a success. And it required a man of nerve and vigor to bring criminals to justice. 
In the first place all the western counties of North Carolina were in a state of anarchy, resulting from the 
ill-starred attempt to set up the independent vState of Franklin ; and then the constant warfare between the 
whites and Indians made men reckless of human life and regardless of the rights of others and the duties 
of civilization. But Jackson had been bred among frontiersmen : he was one of them and he knew how to 
manage them. He made a name for himself, and was sent as the first representative to Congress. In 1797 
he was made a Senator to fill an unexpired term, and but a year later he resigned. Almost immediately he 
wa-> made Jud.ge of the Supreme Court of Tennessee (Jackson believed in holding ofiices, and plenty of them), 
and in iSoi he was elected Major-general of the State Militia. It was this last position which gave him 
the opportunity to make himself famous. When the second war with England broke out he offered his 
services; and in 1813 he set out for New Orleans at the head of two thousand five hundred enthusiastic 
frontier volunteers. He was ardent in the undertaking, and glowingly wrote to the Secretary of War that 
his men were not troubled with "constitutional scruples," but would, if directed, plant the American eagle 
on the walls of Mobile, Pensacola and St. Augustine, the main Spanish strongholds in this country. The 
first important action in which he was concerned was in the attack on the murderous Creek Indians at 
Hickory Ground, which is at the meeting of the Coosa and Tallapoosa Rivers. The red men were origin- 
ally defeated, and afterward Fort Jackson was erected on Hickory (Irouud, which may perhaps account fof 
the Oeneral's popular nickname. vShortly after this brilliant exploit Jackson was made a major-general in 
the regular army, and from this time his career may be said to have begun. The Government at Washington 
was badly demoralized, the capital itself had been captured by the British, and Jackson could neither get 
assistance nor orders. He marched to Mobile, defeated the Eugii.sh who fled to Pensacola. He followed 
them, stormed the town which the .Spaniards surrendered after a weak resistance, and then he hurriedly 
marched to New Orleans. The story of the battle of New Orleans is known to every school-boy ; and vet 
loyal Americans, who take delight in their country's glories, are never tired of hearing it again. The 
English blundered, and their two divisions fired into each other; then they attacked Jack.son's hastily-built 
breast-works of sand and cotton bales, and found that their cannon balls were powerless to batter them 
down. The red coats advanced in long lines, and every shot the frontier soldiers fired brought its man ; 
while the ammunition of the British was fired either into the air or the cotton bales. In brief, the mag- 
nitude of the victory is summed up in the statement that the British lost two thousand killed and wounded, 
while the Americans had six killed and seven wouuded. Instanth- Jackson was the popular hero — his praises 
were in the mouths of all. Well might he have said, after Byron's egotistical style, that he marched away 
from Nashville unknown, and marched back to find himself famous. 

In a little more than ten years he was President of the United States. He was chosen as the 
champion of reform, though exactly what needed to be reformed is very hard to tell. But he set energetic- 
ally about what in modeni phrase would be "turning the rascals out ;" and he made removals and appointed 
his political friends to place and power in a manner wliich caused the heads of the sober-minded, slow- 
going statesmen of the day to spin. "To the victors belong the spoils" was his maxim: and ever since 
his administration it has rung through American history with a continued protest from the party that is on 
the outside. This principle has been carried out by the Democrats and Republicans ; and it is only in 
these later days that civil service laws and the plan of competitive examinations threatens to do away with 
the time-honored spoils system. During the first year of Jackson's tenn as President he removed four 
hundred and twenty -nine postmasters and two hundred and thirty-nine other officers, and. as the new 
apix)intees changed all their clerks, deputies and attaches, it is estimated that nearly three thousand oflice- 
ho'idcrs lost their places. Up to that time the civil service had been looked upon as only moderately profit- 
able, but a safe and permanent occupation. Washington, during his two tenns as President, only removed 
nine persons from office; John Adams ten, and one of these was a defaulter; JeflTerson, thirty-nine; JIadison 
five, and three of the.se were short in their accounts ; Monroe nine, and John Quincy Adams two, both for cau.se. 
Then came Jackson and his ideas about office-holding and office-holders, which were startling innovations. 
From 1787 to 1829 there were 74 removals from Federal office. "Old Hickorv-" beat this record in a month. 



After his inauguration the capital saw what has since become a very familiar sight— an invasion of 
hungr>- office-seekers. They came in vast numbers, and their claims for place were based upon the fadt 
that they had been "workers" in the cause and deser^■ed all that party success could give them. This was 
the view that the President took of the matter, and his friends never had to complain that their services 
were not recognized and rewarded. Naturally, the administration strengthened itself wonderfullv, and Jackson 
was never more popular— among his admirers— than when his first term came to an end. He was enthusias- 
tically re-elected, and four years later was able to name his successor— Van Buren. In 1836 he returned to 
Nashville, after having been Chief Magistrate of the nation for eight jears. He was received with all 
possible marks of attention and affection. His home was the "Hermitage," a country place about nine miles 
cast of the city; and it became the Mecca for political pilgrims. Up to the day of his death, in 1S4S, he 
was bothered and pursued b>- office-seekers, who wished to obtain letters of recommendation from him. 
And his body still rests at the Hermitage. The tomb is of white marble, made after the style of the 
Roman Temple of \esta, which stands immediately adjoining the old house. Bea and I made a pilgrimage 




to the spot and found that it was a vastly enjoyable visit. Eversthing about the place is as Jackson left 
it ; some of the old servants are still there, while the relics are innumerable, and all of them are interesting. 

"This is really as good as going to school and learning American history," said Bea, after I had told 
her this long story about Andrew Jackson. 

In fact the man who goes over the L. & N. with his eyes open finds that he runs across a good deal 
of the most interesting American historj-. And speaking of histors-, Nashville saw some very exciting 
scenes during the late war. It was in 1862, and General Albert Sidney Johnston occupied the city with his 
army. Young, brave and chivalric, he was immensely popular, and the personal magnetism of the man 
drew many to his side of the struggle. All was going well, and the soldiers were reveling in the delights of 
city life. Suddenly came the news that Fort Donnelson had fallen, and Grant, with his overwhelming army, 
was on the march to Nashville. Instantly Johnston withdrew, adjourning the Legislature to meet in IMem- 
phis. The day was Sunday, yet the churches were empty, while the streets were filled with excited crowds. 
The property of those preparing to flee was piled on the sidewalks, and by and by the throng degenerated 
into a plundering mob. It was a terrible time, and law gave place to anarchy. Then Grant came, martial 
law was temporarily declared, and Andrew Johnson was made JMilitars- Governor of the State. The City 
Council refused to take the oath of allegiance to the United States, and the Governor, enraged, at once 
removed them from office. The mayor was also obstinate, and he was summarily arrested. But what need 
to enter into details? That is all over, thank heaven! 



Let us return to the live, energetic city of to-day— a city filled with fresh, live blood, and teeming with 
cnterpri.se, and which is in every way representative of what writers call the "New South." Like all other 
visitors, we greatly admired the splendid proportions of the Capitol. 

As I said before, it is a noble stone structure and its corridors and halls are all of stone. The Supreme 
Court happened to be in session when we made our visit, and we entered the Court room and saw the venerable 
judges sitting in a row, while lawyers and litigants were ranged around. But the most interesting place in 
the Capitol is the Library where is stored the collection of curios of the Tennessee Historical Society, and 
here the visitor can .spend hours profitably and pleasurably. There are all kinds of interesting things to be 
seen from Daniel Boone's rifle, to the rough hickory chairs with which Andrew Johnson began housekeeping. 
Then there are battle flags, tattered and torn with many a long campaign, and ever>- one of them has a hi.storj-. 
• I think these old silk dresses of the pioneer mothers of the vState are more interesting than the flags," 
observed Bea. with a shocking lack of patriotism for which I .sternly reproved her. 

But tile flags tell a stor>- of their own and beneath their folds are ranged the portraits of many of the 
famous men of Tennes.see. One of the pictures which catclies the visitor's eye is that of Parson Brownlow. who 
during the war and immediately after it was as much hated as he was loved. He was a Knoxville, Tenn.. editor 
at the outbreakinig of the war, and was a great I'nionist and fiery Abolitionist. He made his paper a compound 
of lightning .'ind brimstone, and very naturally he was prai.sed on the one hand and unstintedly abused on the 
other. After the war he was made Oovenior of Tennessee, and it was while at the head of the State Cioveni- 
inent that his picture was painted and hung in the Library. There are always a number of men, usually lawyers, 
here consulting books, and there is a hushed air about the place as in a church and the visitor goes about with 
muffled steps. When at last we had exhau.sted the curio.sities of the Library we climbed up the lofty stone stair- 
case leading to the Cupola. I .say climbed, for it is a veritable climb. 

"It reminds me of going up Bunker Hill Monument," I said as we toiled round and round mounling the top. 

" Oh, dear," sighed Bea, " why don't they have an elevator? " 

But the climb is well repaid by the glorious view that breaks upon the eye of the visitor from the toj). 
Na.shville lies at his feet, even the church spires being far beneath him ; in the distance the tawny stream of the 
Cumberland divides the landscape, while all around the horizon is closed by the jagged hills. 

" On nearly all ofthe.se hills," said one of the officers of the building who had accompanied us, " are the 
remains of earth-works and fortifications. During the war Xashville was fairl\- circled with rifle pits, batteries 
and forts. And part of the time there were gun boats on the river. The fighting hereabouts was desperate and 
determined. " 

" Many of the old soldiers are still living here ? " I asked. 

"Oh, yes, the town is full of old soldiers. I'nion and Confederate, living next door to each other like 
brothers. People up North have to come South to realize how thoroughly the war is over and its savage 
memories forgotten. The country- all around Nash\ille during the war was made desolate, but now >ou would 
never know that battle and fire had ever done their work." 

To the South we could see the red brick buildings and si)acions grounds of \"anderbilt University, a 
wonderfully flourishing institution which was founded and endowed by the late Commodore \'anderbilt. And 
now let those who say that railroad kings and millionaire monopoli.sts. as they call them, never use their money 
for the public good, be still. To the South-ea.st is the University of Xashville, and lo the West rise the stately 
buildings of Fisk University. This is for colored men. 

" That's Jubilee Hall," said our escort, as he pointed to the larger of the buildings of Fisk University. 

"Jubilee Hall !" exclaimed Bea, smilingly. 

" That name strikes most visitors as mighty peculiar. Vou see part of the money to build it was raised 
by the Jubilee Singers, and that's how it got its name." 

There can also be .seen the Tennes.see Penitentiar\-, which Bea and I afterward visited and enjoyed as much 
as a Penitentiary can be enjoyed, and the Custom House and Post OlTice. a splendid new structure. 

" This is a grand view," was all Bea said after drinking in the heaut_\- of the scene, and her words are as 
full of meaning as a chapter. 

In going about the business portion of Xashville one realizes more than ever what a great city it is, and 
how varied are its industries. It is the distributing point for an immense territory and yearly it is extending its 
trade and increasing its manufactories. Xo one can ever accuse Xashville of being behind the times. The city 
is progressive, and is metropolitan in every thing. 

It is a very closely-built town, and has more the air of the North than the South— that is, the 
buildings are not detached and have no suggestion of Grecian architecture about them. One of the finest 
-structures is the new post oflice, which is as charming and beautiful as can be imagined. It stands "at the top 
of quite a ridgy hill, and its lofty situation adds materially to the architectural effect. Here it is, in the after- 
noons, that the Nashville young ladies come on a promenade; and one man who would dare to suggest that they 
are not altogether lovely has not yet been born. " But, as a matter of fact, the new post office, which contains 
the other Federal ofiices, is exceedingly convenient and well arranged. Few Government buildings in the 
country make a better showing ; and it was built within the amount appropriated by Congress. 

But I must not forget to say that before Bea and I left Nashville we took a hurried trip to the Meade Farm 
and saw the blooded stock. There are some famous horses here, and elsewhere about the city are great stock 
forms. Buyers come from all over the countPi' and the stockman can find what he wants, be he ever so particular. 



of the most noticable things in connection 
with the L. & N. is the great number of 
colleges and seminaries along its line. Al- 
K most everj' town has a college and thei- 
sm are universally institutions of worth and 
__^ standing. Of course the most noted 
among them is N'anderbilt University 
it \ -ish\ die w hich is not only known 
Ihunuhout Tennessee and the South, but 
throughout the entire country. The site 
of the Lni\ersit\ is magnificent. It 
has se\e^t^ fixe acres of land on 
gentU rising ground to the w-est 
of Nash\ ille -md the elevation 
IS the same as that of Capitol 
L-**^ Hill Bj far the most strik- 

ing feature of the landscape seen 
from the top of the Capitol, 
is the Universit>- and the 
rk-like campus 
lich stretches 
. •„-=-=.„ .-.-, -iround it, and 




while the mlw 
from this lottx 
"coign of 
vantage is 
grand, it is not 
distance alone 
which lends en- 
chantment to the vii. V 
for the nearer one 
preaches the more he reali/os 
the extent and beaut\ of the 
University grounds, and the 
substantial excellence and archi 
teCtural fitness of the building 
Above them all is the mair 
ture, or University Hall, 
grand entrance on either side 
rise two massive towers. Then there 
are Wesley- Hall, a building of splendid 
proportions which is used for the Theo 
logical Department; Science Hall with its \aku.d 
museums, drawing and lecturing room^ whik in 
the basement is the steam plant which heats all 
the buildings. The obser\'ator\- is the best in the 
South and the apparatus is very fine. The me- 
ridian-circle room occupies one wing, with the 
usual roof and horizon shutters. The equatorial 

pier, built on a .solid rock foundation, extends to the floor of the dome, free from connection with the building, 
where it receives the cast iron base of the equatorial mountings. The dome is hemispherical, and revoh-es 
on a cur\'ed track, the motion being easily imparted by a traveling hand-gear. By means of a light windlass 
the shutter is opened by sliding it through the zenith. A tower in the north wing, with a revolving turret, 



V.\NDERBn,T UNIVERSITY. 



is occupied by the geotklic altaziinutli instrument. An electric clock in the tower, for use with this instrument, 
is connected by wire with the Uent sidereal clock in the meridian-circle room. A lower north window is 
provided with an exterior shutter-cage for the meteorological in.struments, while the computing-rooms are on 
the first floor. The gymnasium has not yet been mentioned nor the nine Professors' houses, which are located 
about the grounds, to comply with the conditions of convenience and taste, and an equal number of dwellings 
for the Janitor, Superintendent of Grounds, and other employees of the I'niversity. Then the Medical and 
Dental Colleges are in Nashville, making altogether as complete and lhun>u.i;li an educational institution 
as can be found in America. 

A word or two alxjut the history of the college may not be out of plaee. It was founded in 1873, by 
the late Conielius Xanderbilt, of New York, who on the 27th of March in that year, made it a gift of 
$500,000, which was soon afterward increased to §1,000,000. Seven years later Mr. William H. X'anderbilt 
made a special donation of $150,000, which was expended in building Wesley and Science Halls and the 
Gymnasium. But this is not Mr. W. II. Vanderbilfs only gift, as in July, 1.SS3, he gave $100,000 which 
was to be added to the pennanent endowment of the University. Thus, through the munificence of one 
family this splendid l"niversit>' has been finnl_\- established and its future greatness has been put beyond the 
shadow of a doubt. It is growing and flourishing, and as an indication of its influence it may be stated 
that last vear no less than 499 students were enrolled at the University, coming from twenty-five States of 
the Union and from Anuenia, China, Kngland, Gennany and wScotland. 

The great attention which is being paid to education is one of the features of "the New South." 
There was a time when the sons and daughters of Southern families were sent abroad to be educated, but 
now this is no longer the case. There are excellent colleges and schools at home, and the South is doing 
its own education. 

We were not at all willing to leave Nashville when the time came for our departure, and as the train 
slowly steamed out of the cit\- we kept our eyes fixed upon the lofty and beautiful Capitol, until a sudden bend 
and a high embankment hid it from our sight. Just beyond the city we crossed the tracks of the Nashville, 
Chattanooga and St. Louis R. R., and then we went on at the usual lightning express speed. 

Twenty miles south of Nashville is the old and .solid town of Franklin, in front of which runs the stream, 
nig Ilarpeth. The place has a substantial air of repose about it, and it is po.sse.s.sed of two colleges. 

' There are cotton bales piled up at the depot," said a fellow traveler as he pointed to a great barricade of 
them, which were delivered here from the faniis where the cotton grew. 

In fact we had'fairly entered the great "cotton belt," and as we proceeded South, cotton fields, a strange 
sight to Northeni e3-es, grew more and more frequent. 

" Cotton is King," said Bea, as we whizzed by a cotton field much larger than usual. 

" Yes," put in a fellow touris-t, "but corn, wheat and tobacco, and in fact iron and coal are all members of 
the ro\al family, and each is striving for the supremacy. 

" But cotton is King," persisted that obstinate sister of mine. 

" Well, perhaps," said the other. " Certainly it is more king now when it is made into cloth and thread 
right here in the factories of Nashville, than when it had to be shipped across the ocean to make it useful." 

Another twenty miles and the famous old town of Columbia is reached. 

" Here it was," said I to Bea, " that President Polk began life. He started as a lawyer and his oflfice was 
in a delapidated old log cabin, the picture of which is to be seen in the State Library of Nashville." 

Columbia is a very old place and it has a reputation for business enterprise as well as for its educational 
advantages. The Athenaum and the Columbia Female Institute are both situated here, and if the tourist is as 
fortunate as Bea and myself were, he will see a crowd of red-cheeked laughing girls at the depot, awaiting the 
arrival of one of the companions. At this point the Nashville and Florence R. R. starts off for Mt. Pleasant 
<ind Sandy Hook, and over its rails is hauled the product from the iron furnaces of Lawrence and Wayne, 
Counties. And now the road runs south through a magnificent country. The scenery- a trifle monotonous, 
perhaps, but affording many glimpses of the life of the people who live away from the centers of civilization 
and events. There are log cabins by the track, and the women and children come crowding to the door as the 
train goes past. These are the " poor whites," not unknown to fame, and they are an interesting study. But 
the railroad helps them along and there is no excuse for remaining " poor " however much the accident of birth 
may affect them. Eighty miles from Nashville, or three hundred and seventy-five miles from Cincinnati is 
Pulaski, a wide-awake manufacturing town and the .seat of Giles Male College. 

Three miles beyond the little town of Prospect is the State line, which is only marked by a .small station, 
at which our train did not stop, and .so we dash into Alabama like a conquering anny on a charge. Soon we 
pass Elkmont, where are situated the "Chalybeald Springs," whose waters are held in high repute for their 
medicinal virtues. It is a ver\- picturesque locality and some day nmy develop as a watering place. As it is, 
it is much frequented. Then there is another stretch of "poor whites " who disappear as we approach Athens, 
a thriving town. Harris is simply the crossing of the Memphis and Charlestown Railroad. A mile or two 
beyond we crossed the Tennessee River, which is rolling on to Pittsburg Landing and past the memorable 
field of Shiloh. The bridge is a draw and is a noble structure. On the .southern bank of the river is Decatur, 
a place who.se situation will necessarily make it a commercial, and in all probability a manufacturing center. 
As soon as the Muscle Shoals are deepened, the carrying trade on the river, which is already large, will 
vastly increa.se. Decatur is fortunate in not only having the great trunk line of the I,. iS: N. pass through 



it, hut in also having the East Tennessee, Virginia and r.eorgia Railroad visit it. A few miles hej-ond 
Decatur and the country changes. It is very much broken, high clifls and steep rocky gorges being the 
charadteristics of the scenerj-. This is the beginning of the great iron and coal fields of Alabama, one of the 
richest mineral regions in the world. The possibilities of this country are as j-et scarcely dreamed of, though 
year by year, capital and labor, animated by enterprise, are developing its resources. Just beyond "Sand 
Mountain," which is a marked locality in the industrial progress of Alabama, is 

•»« (Pullman's e>!* 

This is, or was originally, a German colony, and it is named for its founder. A few years ago and it was like 
much of the rest of the country adjacent, bare and unimproved, but now it has been made to blossom as 
the rose. In fact it is a pretentious little city witli a Cuiiit Il.nis. . dmn In-, li-bN, imiK, faaorics of various 
kinds, a potter\-, and even that 
invaluable adjundt of modern 
civilization — a brewery. Its 
houses are models of neatness 
and comfort, and almost invar- 
iabh" thej- are surrounded with 
beds of flowers. This is the 
place for the emigrant and the 
stranger to the iron and coal 
country to get his first impres- 
sions of the locality. 

South of Cullman's the coun- 
try is rough and wild, and the 
track goes through mountain 
gorges and pretty valleys. 
Then all at once, in the very 
midst of the mountainous up- 
lands, we come to 

I^Iouqt Springs, 

which is four hundred and sev- 
enty miles from Cincinnati, and 
one hundred and sevent}--five 
miles from Nashville. Here are 
the finest sulphur and mineral 
springs in America, invaluable 
in the cure of certain diseases 
The air is a bracing tonic , and 
there are beautiful and romantic 
walks and drives without num 
ber, which invite to out door 
exercise, and assist matenalh 
in the up-building of the ph} s 
ical man. The people of the 
Gulf Coast and of the South 
generally come here in num 
bers, and the number of the 
Northern visitors is steadiU 
increasing. Hotel and cottage 
accommodations are all that 
the most fastidious could desire 
It is no barren wilderness; 
but all that makes life pleasant 
abounds, and the society is alvva^•s of the best. It is to be remembered that not the invalid alone comes to 
Blount Springs, but the mere pleasure seeker and inquisiti\-e tourist as well. The springs bubble up from 
their eternal reser\-oirs in the hills, not far from the hotel, and their rocky basins are shaded by forest trees. 

"These springs," remarked a healthy and robust-looking invalid to Bea, "are great institutions. I 
am the living embodiment of 'after taking;' but if 3-011 had seen me 'before taking,' you'd have thought 
I was the living skeleton escaped from some dime mu.seum." "Not so bad as that," I put in. 

"Well, not quite as bad, of course; but I was really nothing but skin and bone. The rest, the fare 
and the waters have built me up. I drink several gallons a day ; in fact, I am a regular old toper, and 
take my drinks as regularlv as I take my meals, and a deal oftener." 




S.iXD MOUNTAIX. 



The waters nrc especialh- good in all troubles of the kidneys, bowels, liver, and the complications 
growing from them. They absolutely drive away a bad complexion and make rosy cheeks and velvet skin 
more pennanent than all the "Lily White" and " Hloom of Youth" which ever was invented. 

As I remarked previously, the surroundings of Ulount Springs are beautiful. The .scenery is charm- 
ingly varied, and among the attractions of the locality is even to be numbered a trout stream. Within a 
few miles are a number of extensive caves, rich with stalactites and ponderous staglamites, and one of them 
has ,1 mysterious undergroiiud stream flowing silently through its dark recesses. The "blowing .spring," 
which is only a mile distant from the hotel, is always interesting. 

South of Ulount Springs the evidences that this is a great mining country increase. Coke ovens 
and smelting furnaces are frequent, while great piles of coal and reddish iron ore are at the railroad 
switches awaiting shipment. Even the soil is red with the superabundant iron : and when it rains the 
water rushing down the hillsides is almost vennillion. The evidences that the earth is being made to yield 
up its treasures increase, until at last we rcich 

•»K I^irrninpham »<■ 

the very center of the iron and coal interests of Alabama. "\Vh\!" ob.served Ika. after we had had a 
good look at the "Magic City." as they call it; Hinningham looks more like an Ohio town than a 
Southeni place." 

And, in fact, Birmingham is not distinctively Southern in its architecture. It is almost entirely Vmilt 
of brick, many of the business blocks and residences being as fine as can be found anywhere : and there is 
an air of settled prosperity and push about the city that impresses the new-comer. Binningham has not 
only a great present, but it is certain of a magnificent future. No wonder it is called the "Magic City." 
At the clo.se of the war it hardly had an existence. Now it is a city, and its population and wealth is 
more than doubling every five years. All about it is an abundant supply of iron, coal and timber; and the 
iron and coal do not lie deep in the bowels of the earth, as is the case with the English mines, but it 
everj-where crops up above the surface. As one old miner said: "It is visible to the naked ej-e." The 
story that a man can take a pick, shovel and wheel-barrow, and go out in the backward and dig out his 
supply of winter coal, is literally true. They tell a little incident here that is characteristic. An Eastern 
capitali.st had purchased a large tract of land near Birmingham, and he came South to look at it. 

"Why," he said to the seller, "I thought there was a mine npon it 1" 
, "Oh, that's all right," responded the other. "Here, JohnI" and he called his son: "go and di.scover 

three or four coal and iron mines for this gentleman." 

This is not as big as it .seems at first sight, for the hills which encircle the cit\- are actually filled willi 
iron and coal. The veins of coal in the neighborhood are from one to eight feet thick, and the quality of the 
article is unexcelled. Side by side with the iron and coal is found the purest and best limestone, while the 
hills above are clothed with the finest timber in the land. With such a wealth of resources, it is little 
wonder that Birmingham has so increased. On account of its great rolling mills, furnaces, foundries and 
machine-shops, it is sometimes called the Pittsburg of the South ; and I think that its marvelous growth 
and enterprise demand that it also be called the vSouthem Chicago. A branch railroad runs from the town 
to the famous Pratt mines, which turn out nearly two thousand tons of coal per day. The L. & N. has on 
this line of road a grant of 517,000 acres — all of it splendid mining land — scarcely a third of which has yet 
been touched. Those who know told nie that land in Pennsylvania, which would cost hundreds of dollars 
per acre, can be purchased here for a mere song. The L. & N. holds its land for sale, and, as it wishes 
to attract capital to the spot, its demands are extremely modest. 

It is here that the Northern visitor will, in all probability, first feel that he is in the genial .South. 
When we left Cincinnati it was cold and everything was frozen luinl, while here the air was balmy and 
s])nng-like. Bea was compelled to lay aside her jacket, and she even wished that her heav\- winter gown 
could be changed for one of lawn. 

Beyond Birmingham the road runs through a beautiful country. It is very much broken up, and 
there is much to see that is decidedl\- novel. The pine woods have a spicy fragrance about them, and the 
ground beneath is as smooth as velvet. 

"I would give a great deal to take a stroll through the woods and walk on the pine needles," said 
Bea. But the train rushed on and she must be satisfied to use her eyes alone. 

At Oxmoor, six miles bej-ond Birmingham, are two large iron furnaces, and in all of the ])laces 
hereabouts are smoking furnaces and great saw mills, with their miniature mountains of sawdust and 
broken boards. 

"I don't think anyone ever told me I had a great head for business," Bea obser\ed as we passed 
an unusuallj- huge .saw mill with a tremendously high pile of broken boards; "but I do believe that there 
is enough lumber wasted down here to make my fortune, if I could sell it for kindling wood up North. 
If I ever have to earn my own living, I think I shall start a kindling wood agency and grow rich." 

"(Vreat head! great headl" I say, and Bea proceeds to dilate upon the feasibility of her .scheme. 

Brock's dap lies beyond Oxmoor, and through it we enter the Great Cataba Iron Basin, a region 
of unlimite<l passibilities. Silimia is noted for the making of lime, and that accounts for its name. At 



Calera, the next station, the L. & X. is crossed by the Selnia, Rome and Dplton R. R. At Cooper's, 
sixty-two miles from Binningham, gold has been fonnd on the smoothly-flowing Coosa River; but the iron 
of the region is a great deal more sought after than the gold. But who can tell whether some da>- gold 
hunters may not flock here, hungrj- for wealth, by the thousands ; and the quiet banks of the Coosa be 
whitened by the tents of the treasure seekers. 

Among the fine.st buildings of the "Magic City" is that of the First National Bank— a 
jjjk ^A handsome brick strucftnre with stone facings. This is the pioneer bank of this locality ; 

l[^PM». •• and its steady growth and permanent success are tj-pical of the progress of the 

^k'v \ /jttjjL, region. When the banking house was put up nearly fourteen \cais a-o it stood 

^■^ \\f ^■V' jj^ yjg middle of an old field — now it is surrounded by fine Iniildin-s, while 

at all times can be heard the busy hum of the great iiiaiuifac- 
tories which are making Birmingham rich and famous. 
The institution was originallj- charted Nov. 27, 1872, 
as the National Bank of Binningham, with a capital 
of only $50,000. Its business increased rapidlj- 
and the need of a larger capital w-as felt. This 
happy end was attained in 1884 by a con- 
ition with the City Bank, and the 
capital IS now $250,000, a quarter 
of a million of dollars. The busi- 
ness of this institution extends 
into all the adjoining 
counties, and its facili- 
ties for making collec- 
tions are unsurpassed. 
It is also well 
acquainted with 
the comniercia! 
standing of all 
business houses 
and information 
of this kind 
always 
at tiie 




grows more and 
bioken bv thickets of 



ser\ ice of its correspondents The 
present ofiicers of the Bank, aw 
\\ ho have done so much to make it a 
success, are. W. A Walker, Jr , Pres't 
John C. Henley, V -Pres't, W. J. Cameron 
Cashier, and E W. Linn, Assistant Cashiei 

Southward, and still southward, the counli \ 
more level, there being long stretchess of pine wood 
cane and hollj-, cheerful with its green leaves and brilliant red berries. (Occasionally we rush past a cotton 
or a corn field, and finally IMontgomery is reached, the Capital building looming high above the hou.ses 
in the distance. As the train rolls into the city we look down from the steep bluff, upon which the track 
is built, to the waters of the Alabama River. 

->fs Montgonisry a<- 

It makes no dilTerence when the traveler nia^- arrive in ^Montgomery, he is sure to be received b},- a 
score or more of ragged, tattered colored boys, offering fruit or cakes for sale. They are queer little fellows 
and though they do not boast a single article of superfluous clothing, >et tlie garment or two which the\- 
do possess seems on the point of melting into thin air or vanishing into nothingness. 

"I do wish I could make one of those pinckaninnies stand still long enough to sketch him,' 
sighed Bea. But she is only an indifferent amateur artist, and the boys are such living examples of per- 
petual motion, that an instantaneous photograph is the only thing which would do them justice. 



Very naturally our allculion was at first taken up with looking after our baggage and observing the 
noisy little darkies. Hut we did not fail to note the beauty of our surroundings. The track is fairly upon 
the edge of a high blufl", which rises from the calmly flowing waters of the Alabama, and the river makes 
a great bend, so that the eye has a magnificent sweep. Almost at our feet was the steamboat landing, 
for the .Vlabama is navigable as far as Montgomery at nearly all seasons of the year. 

"If you notice these colored people," said a Southern gentleman whose acquaintance we had made 
upon the train, "you will see they are difierent from the colored folks you have up North. They are more 
tropical in the^r disjjosition and take life with more sunny ease and carelessness of the morrow, than their 
Northern brethren. In fact, you are fairly in what is called the "black lx;lt," which stretches across 
Mis.sissippi. .Mabnma and (ieorgia, and there are more colored people in it than in all the rest of the countrv 
put together. Sometimes we say down here that we have too many of tlicin, Inil tiuK- will in.ikc all things 
straight." 

"1 suppo.se," Bea questionlv asked, "that ne.irly all of the older colored people here were once 
slaves." 

"Yes, nearly all of them. Here in .Montgomery you can fiud .some almost perfect specimens of the 
old famil_\' servant, loyal and true-hearted they were, knowing nothing more in life, and having no other 
aim hut to faithfully serve their ma.ster and mistrc'SS. To many of them the Emancipation Proclamation 
had but very little meaning, and they have gone on .serving in the family to which they belonged without 
a thought of change. Hut of course that is not the way with the younger generation." 

And in addition to the multitudinous, and if the truth must be owned, generally lounging negroes, 
the obserxer can not fail to note that Montgomery is distinctively a Southern city. There is a gentle air 
of repose about its wide streets and shaded dwellings that is suggestive of long settled comfort and aristo- 
cratic breeding. The streets are magnificent in their width, while there are shade trees without number. 
In the business part of the city the stores and offices are like those in any other city, but the dwellings 
with their lofty pillared porticoes and large windows speak of the South. The visitor can take a carriage 
and be driven about Montgomery and its immediate vicinitj- and see much more in a short time than he 
possibly could hope to do on foot. That is what Bea and I done, and we were channed especially- when 
we found that our colored driver onlj- wanted a fair return for the drive, and did not demand all we ])()s- 
.sessed in the world, as is the case with our hackmen in Cincinnati. 

I was told that much of the water used in Montgomery was from artesian wells, and tliat they had 
been sunk there with e.xtraordinarj- success. I do not know whether it is the water from the artesian 
wells or not, but certain it is that Jlontgomery is a remarkably healthy place. It is al.so beginning to be 
a manufacturing as well as a commercial center. With unexhaustable coal and iron fields to the north of 
it, lumber all about it, and great cotton regions reached by its railways and the river, Montgomery mav 
aspire to anything. And its ])eople already realize the importance of its situation and are establishing new 
enterprises and reaching out in new directions. 

Our stay in Montgomery was necessarily brief— only over traiii.s — and once again we are speeding 
.southward. Before we had gone many miles tlie decided change in the flora and fauna showed we were 
really in another latitude and another and wanner climate. Indeed that latter fact was \er\- a])parenl. 
Spanish moss begins to hang in greenish-gray masses from the trees, looking .strangefully soft and light 
as it swayed in the wind. 

"This is the forest primeval," began a j'oung lady in the scat back of iis, and then slie went on, 
"with its ancient jiines and hemlocks, beared with moss." 

"She is trying to quote Evangeline, and say something about 'beared with mo.ss,' whispered Bea." 

"Yes," I replied, "they all do it. Down here every tourist regards it as a religious duty to say 
something about ' beared with moss, stand, indistinct in the twilight, like Druids of old, with voices sad 
and prophetic;' just as up in the Michigan woods, the summer visitors all say this is the forest primeval. 
They all think they have struck a bran new quotation." 

"It is verj- amusing," said Bea, and then both of us kept .still and looked out of the window, for 
the young lady suddenlj' relapsed into silence and we feared that she had overheard us. 

But there was not only the Spanish moss to show that we were down South ; there were cave breaks 
in the hollows, tangles of holly and laurel, magnolias and palmettos, with occasional oaks and always 
pines. Indeed, very soon the pines seemed to have driven everything else out. and to have monopolized 
the land, for it becomes one va.st pine forest. 

Greenville, forty-four miles from Montgomery, is (juite a place, and numbers among its other advant- 
ages, two female colleges. 

The pine woods seem endless, and beneath the ground was soft and brown with the pine needles. 
Ivvergreen, which is eighty-one miles from Montgomery and si.x hundred and eighty -one from Cincinnati, 
seemed particularly well named. Ten miles further south is Castleberry, where are I'anther and Murder 
Creeks, two streams of some pretentions, and down them are floated logs and lumber rafts to Pen.sacola. 
It was here that an old gentleman, a native of the region, came aboard the train and sat down opposite us. 
Bea was commenting on the unpleasant names of the two creeks. 

"I don't .see," .she obser\-ed, "why they didn't find some prettier name tliaii Mnider Creek. Us 
awful, isn't it?" " Rather suggestive," I replied. "Thar is a heap more pretty names than Murder Crick," 



continued 



put in the venerable old man on the opposite seat, who immagined that mv sister's remark was addressed 
to him, 'but then this here crick is named for cause, for cause." "And what was the 
Bta, whose sense of propriety was evidently utterly absorbed by her curiosity. 

"That crick, long 'fore I was a boy," said the ancient stranger, "used to be called Turpentine 
Crick; and thar' lived on it a squatter, who, 'long with his dogs and his cattle critters, had a darter 
She was a mighty purty girl, I reckon; and nearly all the young fellars in this here section kinder 
thought she was the purtiest thing on earth. But she jist went on a-helping her man in the house— a 
log cabin I reckon it was— and milking and making herself ginerally 
useful ; and she never let on that she knowed she ■ 
out of the gincral run or that the \oung felk 
was tr\ing to shine u]) to Ikt and she ne\er 
said iiDtlun., in tlii. \\ u ol 



tln-iii Viul wliLn th' 



.oui igLiuLiit to 
d ,,0 to the old 



e was an^- way purtv J^^ 




Sl\\\ SOI TH 



man, and ask for her, he'd always say: 'All right! Whichever on' you gets her, has her. \\-hichever on' 
you gets her, has her, he'd say. Thar' was one likely young fellar in the neighborhood-his name was 
^r'la- T,, disremember-and he follered her round purty nigh on to all the time; but she jist treated 
him like all the rest, and all the old man would say to him was: 'Whichever on' vou gets her has her.' 

if; ?!,"l' TZ°" u ■ '"' ^'"'^ ^''" '"'""^ >°"' ^"^ ^" '^^ time the girl got purtier and purtier. 

But I didn t start m with no intention of talking until we get to Mobile, whar' I get off, and so I'll kind 
of hurry up. Well, bime by thar' came along a sur^-eyin' chap-one of them fellers that blazes the trees 
and ays off the country- into squares-and the girl fell dead in love with him. This voung feller, Ross 
told the sur^•eyln chap to pack up his things and git. But I reckon he didn't intend to be bossed, and so 
he stayed ;^ and he made love to the girl, while the old man jist said; 'Whichever on' vou gets her, has 
hich got her.'" said Bea, who, I suppose, was growing tired of his rambling tale. 

One day the sur\'eyin' chap was found dead in the crick, with nigh^onto twenlv 
That's the cause of calling it Murder Crick." 



•And 

"Neither on 

buckshot in his breast. 



•But whom did the girl marry?" "Well, the feller Ross was never heard of after that, and so she 
didn't marr>' him; and she couldn't anyway, because she was dead." "Dead!" echoed Bea, aghast at the 
tragic talc. "Yes'm. she went and drowned herself in the crick." Then Bea was silent, and the aged 
passenger from Castleberry looked mouniful, as though the story had been too much for him; and finall>- he 
arose and went into the smoker, leaving us in blissful ignorance as to how I'anther Creek come by its name. 

«« PsrjsaGola Junction 5>i<- 

Seven hundred and nineteen miles from Cincinnati, and si.\ty-one miles from Mobile. Here it is that the 
road to I'ensacola, Florida, leaves the main track, and the through cars for Florida are switched off. It 
is not much of a town ; there being merely a depot, a hotel, a half dozen stores, several saw mills and 
a number of houses. The tourist sees more railroad tracks than anything else; and if he is not going 
to Florida— unfortunate man— he can console iiimself by the thought that the orange State lies but a few 
miles to the eastward. 

-Kj PsnsaGola. Flori^Ia »<• 

It is a very short run on the Ivlkti N. from IV-nsacola Jui\ctioii to I'ensacola. an<l Hea and I had 
scarcely settled ourselves for the trip, and chatting the while about the Land of Flowers which we were enter- 
ing, before we found ourselves at our journey's end. We had pas.sed lilufi" Springs, Molino, which is more or 
less inhabited by .saw-mills. Quintette, Muscogee, Cantonement, C.onzales and Oakfield. All of these places 
are given up to the making of lumber, and the buzz of the whirling saws struck our ears as we halted 
at the .stations. Not only this, but saw-mills are .scattered all along the road and the.\- tell in no uncertain 
way of the greatness of the timber interests. 

"It really is a land of flowers," said Bea, as she pointed to the gaily decked trees by the side of the 
road and then to the blossoming plants beneath them. 

But while we talked, the smell of the sea came to our nostrils and the train glided into I'ensacola. 

This is the gateway to Florida for the tourist ; and its situation and sjilendid harbor, which has but 
few equals on the globe, has made it a great niariline jjort. .Vnd there could be no more fitting introduc- 
tion to F'lorida than Pensacola. 

'They say. " I remarked after we had come to know the place, "that first impressions arc always 
the best, and if that is the case then the half has never been told of Florida." 

"No," put in Bea, "what we have heard has only suggested its beauty and loveliness. I would be 
happy if I could only send a little of this balmy, delicious air home to the shivering folks in the North. 
You remember in their last letter they said the snow was a foot deep, and here it is like a day in June. • Oh, 
what is so rare as a day in June?'" she quoted with a laugh. 

We set the town down at once as not only delightful and beautiful, but as a contradictory kind of a place. 
The old and the new is queerly mixed together. Side by side are the old Spanish buildings, which speak 
of a fonner age and generation, and the modern .structures of to-day. The dead pa.st, with its memories and 
traditions is strangely brought in contact with the ever living, business-like present. 

"I didn't know that Pensacola was so old," said Hea tome one evening when the history of the place 
had been di.scussed in the hotel parlor. 

"It has been here ever since the creation. " I obsened. but she explained that she meant something 
entirely different. 

Almcst a century before the Pilgrims set foot upon Plymouth Rock, the adventurous Spanish Captain, 
Panfilo-de-Nar\aez, started into Pensacola Bay, and upon European eyes first burst that hannoniously beau- 
tiful picture of earth and water, of wooded headlands and shining beach, which to-day delights the tourist. 
That was in 1525, hardly thirty years after Columbus made his first memorable voyage. He brought back 
to Spain a glowing account of this wonderful harbor, and Spanish mariners visited it from time to time. 
Some called it Port-de-Auclose ; others St. Mary's Bay; and still others Pensacola Bay, from the tribe of 
Indians which dwelt upon its shores. This last name was retained. It was not until 1686 that a settlement 
was made and then a fort, piously called San Carios, and a church was. erected upon the site of Fort Bar- 
rancas. It was a war-like place, always garrisoned with Spanish regulars, and it was the scene of many a 
bloody fray. In 1719 the French captured it and then it was retaken and taken and fought over until 1722, 
when the flag of Spain was again run up over the fort, there to remain until 1763, when Pensacola was ceded 
to Ivngland. The F-nglish did not regard it as very valuable acquisition, but they did one good thing and 
that was to lay the town off in regular squares. After the Revolution the town again fell into the hands of 
Spain. In our second war with England it was also a place of some war-like notoriety. General Jackson 
swept into it with an American Ann.\-, although what right he had to invade Spanish territory has alwa>s 
been a grave historical question, and an English fleet in the Bay destroyed Forts San Carlos and Santa Rosa, 
and Santa Rosa Island. It was not until 1S19 that the territory was ceded to the United States, and in 1845 
the State of Florida was admitted into the Union. 

"That is quite a chapter of history-," said Bea, when I had finished my narrative. 

And we found it hugely interesting to visit the old Spanish forts and fight the battles of two centuries 
over again. 



Across Pensacola Bay, a distance of four miles, is Warrington, where the Navy Yard is situated. I had 
seen the similar establishments at Washington and Norfolk, and Bea was delighted to learn that neither of 
them is as interesting as is this, not to mention the beauty of the surroundings. A landsman can spend 
days at the Navy Yard and never tire, while it has unfailing charms for the man of the sea. Ever>'thing 
about the place from the well kept lawns, war-like with piles of cannon balls and a field piece or two, to the 
docks and great work shops, is as neat as a pin. 

"It IS all in ship-shape order, I suppose a sailor would observe," commented Bea. 

After we had gone over the Nav\^ Yard, we strolled over to Fort Barrancas, which is immediateU- to the 
westward. Further on is the Pensacola Lighthouse, which Bea insisted on sketching becau.se it was so grace- 
ful and striking ; and further on are the ruins of Fort McRae. A historic old pile it is, with a wealth of 
memories clustering around its shattered walls. But those walls were not broken by man. They were built 
too strong for that. It was the work 
of the waters of the Gulf, which grad- 
ually supped the foundations. The 
visitor can find a great variety of 
shells here. 

One of the most delightful trips 
about Pensacola is to Santa Rosa 
Island. It is a long, narrow strip 
of sand which lies across the mouth 
of the Bay and shuts out the waring 
billows of the stonn-beaten Gulf 
The inhabitants call it a "sand- 
ke3-." It has a magnificent beach, 
where the finest surf bathing in the 
world may be enjo\-ed. The waves 
come rolling up the long, smooth 
white incline a hundred feet or more. 
This beach is the incubator of the 
great turtles of the Gulf Its gradual 
incline, the easily excavated sand 
beyond, and the wann southern 
exposure, adapt it to their approach, 
the making of nests and hatching 
of their eggs. So they resort to it 
for this purpose, and in due time the 
young turtles are hatched, unless the 
eggs are captured by various crea- 
tures, biped and quadruped, who 
seek them in the season. From 
Pensacola over to the Lsland is about 
seven miles, and as the land breeze 
of the night sets fair across the bay, 
it is a pleasant trip of moonlight 
nights to run over on a sail boat, 
land on the bay shore, walk acros.s 
the island, which is not a third of a 
mile wide opposite the city, and seek 
for "turtle crawls" on the Gulf 
beach, or bathe luxuriously in the 
surf The "crawl" shows on the 
sand where the under shell has been 
dragged along, and following this 
up to a pomt above the wash of the 

highest waves, the nest is found, usualh- about two and a half feet below the surface. A single nest will 
contain from one hundred to three hundred eggs. At Sabine Pass, on Santa Rosa Island, alligators are found 
by the ten thousand, and are killed in large numbers by the hunters who frequent the place. 

The fishing off the island is, as a veteran angler said, immense, and the Santa Rosa "red snapper 
banks" are known all over the South. I don't know whether it is pleasanter to catch red snapper or eat 
them, but certain it is that it is glorious, ner\'e-thrining sport to haul in the great, rosy fish almost as fast 
as }-ou can play j-our line. Then there is the gamely salt water trout and Spanish mackeral which afford 
excellent sport. Speaking of fishing I must not forget to saj- that fresh water fish abound in the net work 
of bayous, rivers and streamlets which surround Pensacola. There is as much genuine sport in catching 
them as in hooking fish in the waters of Northern Michigan, and you catch ten here to one there. 




All around excursions invite the tourist. Alter Saiila Rosa Island and a visit to Fort Pickens, conies a 
trip to Escambia Hay and the river of the same name. Then there is I'udido Hay which is only less lovely 
than Escambia Bay, though both are beautiful beyond description. A \-oyage up Escambia River which 
winds in and out with many a turn and convolution, is plea.surable. The little steamer in some places 
brushes through the foliage of the overhanging trees, and then again the shore is hugged so closely that 
it would be an easy matter to step from the deck of the moving boat to /tira fnina. 

But this is only one of many enjoyable excursions. West Florida abounds with uniquely beautiful 
places and scenery which is unequaled. The tourist may come here with great expectations, but he will 
find them more than realized. And for a trip through Florida there could be no better base of operations 
than Pensacola. In other parts of this book can be found a list of the F'lorida steamboat lines and railways, 
and the traveler will have no difficulty in selecting his route. Twenty different routes are open to him, and 
wherever he goes he will find this land of flowers and tropical fruits, this land of balmy breezes and genial 
sunshine, this land of health and physical well-being, attratflive and new. The Florida tourist is never dis- 
appointed. Thousands of people from the North have come here expecting to spend a week or two, and 
their stay has lengthened into months. The winter cottages in Pensacola, of many Northerners who spend 
half the year here, tell more forcibly than words of mine, the attracftiveness of this favored region. 

If the stranger wishes to follow in Bea's and my footsteps, he will take the Pensacola and Atlantic Rail- 
road to Chatahoochee, (which is pronounced with three sneezes and a shiver) thence to Tallahassee, capitol 
of the State, then east to Jacksonville, and down the St. John's River to Polatka and St. Augustine. That 
is a delightful trip. It takes one through the great orange country, and past the most characteristic Florida 
scenery. Then we returned via Cedar Ke\s and across the Gulf to Pensacola. We might have gone south 
to Key West and on to Havana, Cuba, which latter port is only five hundred and ten miles from Pensacola. 

Leaving Pensacola Junction the road runs through the same vast pine woods, and before long comes 
to Canoe. It is noted for its turpentine interests, and much capital and labor is employed in the manufacture 
of turpentine and rosin. Fortunes have been made in this business, and few Northerners have any idea as 
to its e.xtent. An ordinary turpentine facflory turns out between 5,000 and 10,000 barrels of rosin per year, 
and for each 5,000 barrels of rosin there are 800 barrels of turpentine. It must be remembered that a 
turpentine barrel is nearly twice as large as a rosin barrel. 

And now we go through a country that is very strange to our eyes. There are long stretches of level, 
marshy land where the vegetation grows luxuriantly thick and wild ; where pendant vines hang from tree 
to tree making tangled arcades ; but which are never traversed by the feet of man. Then comes a bit of 
higher ground, and the next moment the train is rumbling over an ann of the Mobile Bay, or over a river 
whose calm and sluggish waters seem to be drowsy. 

Tall rushes grow by their banks, unknown reeds lift themselves from the mud and the eminently 
tropical palmetto is everywhere. Gradually the country becomes a dead level, the smell of salt water comes 
to our nostrils and on and on until our train glides into Mobile. 

The City of Live Oaks, and it is rightly named. As soon as one leaves the busy commercial center 
of the city, the streets widen into magnificent avenues, shaded b\- long rows of the ever verdant live oaks, 
and lined with great Southern houses, reveling in veranda on veranda, and pillared portico on pillared portico. 
And the windows are so breezily open and the doors of such a generous and hospitable width that one feels 
that this must be the land of sunshine and flowers. At least Bea and I were very positive about it. Here 
the grass was a glorious green, and magnolias, figs and orange trees, mulberries and the umbella china were 
rich in their never failing foliage. But a few short days before in Cincinnati everj-thing was bleak and bare, 
and here seven hundred and eighty miles south, the winds bore with them the freshness of Spring, birds 
were singing and life seemed a delicious dream of light and warmth. 

Every year Mobile is becoming better known to the tourist. Those who are fleeing from the blizzards 
which blow with such icy fierceness from the snowy winter wastes of Dakota, here find shelter, balminess 
and all the comforts of civilized and urban life. There is the splendid "shell" road for driving, the Bay 
for sailing, theaters for amusement, and churches without number. And the delights of living are enhanced 
by the oysters from the Bay, which experienced and professional epicures pronounce to be par excellence. 
Of course Bea and I tried them, not once but often, and as I write of those delicious bivalves which go 
slipping down one's throat as though they enjoyed being eaten, I think of the song 

"Her sweet smile haunts me still." 
Those oysters still make mj- mouth water. 

Mobile is at the head of the Bay which bears its name, and here the Mobile River, a slow and sleepy 
stream, empties its waters. The Mobile Rirer, by the way, is quite eccentric. It is formed by the junction of 
the Alabama and a river which bears the remarkable name of Tombigbee, and after flowing south a few 
miles it divides, the eastern branch being called the Tensas, but before long the divided river again unites. 
The Bay is indeed beautiful, and a sail over its waves is delightful. I had been reading up on Mobile, and 
as we glided over the waters in front of the city, I told Bea the story of Iberville and his brother Bier\-ille. 
" They were Canadians," I said, "and nearly two centuries ago they left Canada, or New France as it was 
then called, and sailed down the Atlantic Coast into the Gulf to form a settlement on the Mississippi. They 
cr:pt along the coast until they came to Pensacola Harbor. There was a Spanish settlement here, and the 
Commander received them graciously enough but would not pennit them to land, so they sailed on until tliey 



readied Mobile Bay. They first landed on a large island on which they found piles on piles of bleached human 
bones. So they called it Massacre Island, though now it is known as Dauphine Island." 

•Were they white men's bones?" inquired Bea, interrupting my historical narrative. 

" Xo, I <jue.ss they belonged to Indians who had gone to the Happy Hunting Grounds. The Mobile 

Indians dwelt "here, and as they had the disagreeable habit of cooking and eating their captives, the bones 

may have signalized the cannabalistic rejoicings after some great victor}-. That was in 1702, and in the same 

vear Bierville built a fort about twenty miles up the Mobile River on the west bank. The situation was out 








A SOI Tliri N HOME 

of the way however, and so he finally started the settlement which has grown into Mobile They tell a very 
funn}' story about the "petticoat insurrection" which took place in 1706." 

' ' Do you mean to say there was a rebellion among the women ? ' ' asked Bea, with a look of interest. 

"That's just about it. You see the ladies of the Colony were very dainty and delicate, and they 
rebelled because they were obliged to eat Indian com." "And how did it end?" said my sister. 

"I believe the women were forced to yield; star\^ed into it, perhaps. Or else they learned how to 
make corn bread and corn cakes; and so their sorrow was turned into rejoicing." 

"Then it was in this Bay," I continued, "that Farragut won immortal fame. It was on the fifth 
day of August, 1864, that the Union fleet began the attack. At the entrance to the Bay the Confederates 
had Fort Morgan on one side and Fort Gaines on the other, while in the Bay beyond lay a number of 
small iron-clads, ready for action. The Union ships resolved to make a dash of it, and they steamed into 
the Bay under a terrible fire from the forts, which they returned with very little effect. Just as the 
Tecumseh, one of the largest of the vessels, came opposite Fort Morgan, it struck a torpedo and almost 
immediatel}^ sunk. Thereupon the Brookhn, another large ship, began to back, and threw the rest of the 
fleet in confusion. Her commander evidently thought he was in a hot place, and that it was almost time 
to 'git.' He signalled to Farragut: 'We have just lost our best monitor. WTiat shall I do?' Farragut, 
who was lashed in the rigging of his flag-ship, the Hartford, sent back the brief but unmistakable message, 
'Go ahead!'" "And did they go ahead?" 

"Yes; they passed the forts, captured the fleet in the Bay, and took Mobile." 

We found a vi.sit to the grass-grown fortifications filled with interest; but " grim-^•isaged war had 
smoothed hi.s wrinkled front." and put on .such a peaceful, happy smile that it was hard to realize that 
here blood had flowed like water, and deeds were wrought which will go ringing down the ages. Massacre 



Island a second time deserved its name. Rut the past is past. Heaven be thanked! And as Bea and I 
sat near one of the old forts, and gazed out upon the ships in the roadstead, the war. with all its horrid 
tumult, seeuied centuries distant. 

The entrance to the Hay is about two and one-half miles in width, and it is completely land-locked. 
It is one of the magnificent harbors of the world. There is a distance of about twelve miles from the 
Gulf to Mobile; and. as the Hay shallows toward the further end, the largest ships can not be loaded at 
the Mobile whar\es. But the channel is being rapidly deepened, and this fault will speedily be remedied. 

"The .stretch of road between Mobile and New Orleans," remarked a .socially inclined old gentleman 
to Bea, when we had taken the train to continue our journey, "is one of the most beautiful in all the country. 
You won't find any lofty mountains on it, any deeply cut canyons, or any Swiss valleys. This is not a region 
where Nature displays her wild and ruggedly massive .strength. I won't call the .scenery sublime, but it is 
beautiful and it is entirely new. Then the road itself is remarkable. In .some places it is built across bottom- 
less morasses and swamps where the land and water meet and fight for pos.session. It is really a wonderful 
triumph of engineering .skill, and the men who built it deser\-e all credit." 

This was what the old gentleman said and he fell far short of the truth. For one hundred and forty 
miles the road skirts the C.ulf, sometimes running on the very beach, now crossing a bayou or cutting right 
across one of the numerous anns of the great inland sea, or again traversing an endless swamp whose green 
reeds stretch away on unbroken level like a limitless prairie. And nearly always the dancing waves of the 
"Me.xique Gulf" are in sight. On a fair day when the heavens are blue and sun bright above, when the 
earth is divinely green and the waters are all aglow below, the ride is one of pure delight. .\nd, tourist, let 
me warn you. If the day be dark and heavy clouds blacken the sky, while the Gulf is rough and troubled, 
you will not find the scenery attraclive. The smooth road and splendid cars will make the ride pleasant of 
course, but that part of the entertainment which nature is expected to furnish will be woefully lacking. 

.Some parts of the region remind me of the ob.servation made by a cynical cuss from Boston. Me said : 

"This section was only half made up by the Lord, when man came along and claimed po.ssession. Ever 
since then the Lord hasn't meddled and man has been left to get along as best as he can." 

But that is a very absurd criticism. It is a fortunate thing that the Lord didn't make the world alike. 
And that part of Louisiana and Mississippi and the Gulf plays just as important a part in the econom\- of 
nature as New England itself. Still, to .stop this philosophical discussion, Bea called my attention to the 
fact that the first .station after Mobile was called Venetia. 

"It is a very appropriate name," .she said, ".seeing that there is more water to be seen than land." 
And then she went on to remark that the .station after that was called St. Elmo, and that she had read a 
charming novel of that name. I tried to tell her about the St. I':imo lights, and she proceeded at the 
same time to tell about the novel, until we suddenly realized how ridiculous it all was, and fell to gazing 
out of the car windows. For some miles the road runs by the shore of the Mobile Bay, and we caught 
glimpses of the shipping at the wharves, and of the vessels lying at anchor far out on the waters. There 
were a few fleecy clouds in the sky, and these cast their shadows upon the Bay. Now a ship would 
gleam in the sunlight, all her masts and yard glistening like polished gold ; then the long .shadow would 
drift down, and the ships would suddenly grow dark and lifeless, only to be again gloriously transfonned. 

"Ah!" half sighed Bea, "T wonder if Farragut noticed how beautiful it was when he sailed up the Bay." 

"No, I don't think he did. If he thought of anything except the details of the battle, it was 
probably of the torpedoes, with which it was said the Bay was filled, and which at any time might blow 
his flag-ship and all her crew into kingdom come. ' 

Grand Bay is a beautiful place, and the views around are magnificent. It is a great shipping point 
for telegraph poles and .sticks suitable for "pile-driving." Great heaps of this timber are piled up every- 
where, and the air smells fresh and resinous. 

Fifteen miles beyond Grand Bay is Scranton, while immediately adjoining it is the town of East 
Pascagoula ; and this is another great lumber point. The long bridge which the train crosses is over the 
I'ascagoula River, and lumber is floated down the .stream and its branches in almost unlimited quantities. 
There are great saw mills in sight, and mountains of sawdust tell a tale of industry that needs no cr/mi)li- 
mentarj- adjectives. 

As Bea and I looked out from the train, we could see far away ships upon the horizon, while off 
from the coa.st were two islands. Turtle and Horn. They looked dim and hazy, and an inexperienced 
landsman would hardly have known that they were islands, unless told. 

"I would really like to know if this land has any value." observed Bea. when we were fairly out 
of Scranton, and were skimming across an apparently endless marsh, which is every now and then broken 
by the lazy waters of some bayou. 

"■you're a .stranger here. ^li.ss.'" inquired a passenger acro.ss the aisle, and whose baggage proclaimed 
him a resident of New Orleans. "Yes," she replied. "From Cincinnati," I added. 

"Well, I guess you don't have much of this kind of land up there. But you asked if it had any 
value. Of course it is not laid out in building lots, and I never heard of any crops being raised on it ; 
but in summer it brings forth just about the biggest mosquitoes in the world. They used to say, when 
this road was building, they never could leave any of the rails or crowbars round loose, as the skeeters'd use 
them to pick their teeth. I gue.ss that is a yarn, however. Still, they tell the .story, and I give it for what 



it is worth." "Then a man might have a pretty large landed estate in this region and still not be very 
rich?" continued that inquisitive girl. "Yes, that is so. But there is one thing for which these swamps 
are celebrated, and that is the shooting upon them. In certain seasons of the j-ear they are fairly alive 
with wild ducks and water fowl of various varieties. Sportsmen come from all over the country, and if a man 
doesn't bag all the game he can carry away in a baggage car, it is because he has never learned how to 
pull the trigger." 

Then we arrived at West Pascagoula, which is four miles from Scranton, or eight hundred and twenty-four 
from Cincinnati, and the gentleman from New Orleans began to tell us of the "Creosoting" works which are 




situated here. 
Creosoting is 
a process by 
which timbers 
that are to be 
driven into 
water infested 
with boring, 
gnawing sea 
ibsolutel}- safe from their insid- 
-- attacks In brief, the sticks of timber to be 
1 cited aie placed in a large iron cjlinder which 
l'^ then closed and by an ingenious plan they are 
thoroughh satuiated with creosote. The works 
smell to hca\en," for creosote is anything 
ut si\or\ Rut West Pascagoula is quite a 
winter rtsoit iiid the beach is lined with bath 
houses, while pretty pleasure j-achts mingle with 
the oyster boats and still less aristocratic crafts 
which are to be seen upon the Gulf. And 
now we come to Ocean Springs, on the 
east side of the Bay of Biloxi, while on the 
further side lies the famous old town of 



;.su.\ iJ.vvis. 



■«j l^iloxi tx<- 



once the capitol of the golden province of "La Louisane." when "La Belle France" was just beginning 
to establish her empire in the New World. Here it was that Iber\-ille, in 1699, anchored his ships and tried in 
vain to patch up an alliance, offensive and defen.sive, with the timid Bilo.xi Indians. His brother Bierville, 
of whom I have already spoken, founded the town. When the great Mississippi Co. was chartered in 
France in 1712, the most extravagant expectations were held in regard to Biloxi. and it was hoped that great 



stores of ••gold and pearls" could be obtained from the favored locality. The prospectors, as thej- would 
be called at the present time out west, wrote back that there was neither gold nor pearls, and that the main 
products of the region would probably be wool and grain. Thereupon the French authorities gravely directed 
a number of buffaloes be penned up, tamed, shorn of their wool at the proper time, and be generally taught 
the ways of civilized cattle. Ah, those were queer old times. Things have changed since then. 

■•But did they tame the buffaloes ?'• innocently asked Bea, when I told the story, and I only laughed 
at the simplicity of her question. The idea of taming buffaloes and shearing their alleged wool! One would 
think an American girl would scarcely ask such a question. 

I am forgetting the Biloxi of the present in the past, and I fanc\- those early Frenchmen would hardly 
recognize the fdace to-day. Bathing houses line the beach, there are splendid drives, and the town itself 
with its e.\cellent hotels and accommodations for the stranger is inviting. Even religion has chosen its 
particular dwelling here, and the Methodists have a large park where camp meetings are annually held, and 
which is at all times a delightful pleasure ground. These meetings were very humble affairs at first, but year 
by year they grew and they are still growing. The great trees which line the shore at Biloxi cast a grateful 
shade, and on the benches beneath them one loves to linger and look out upon the (".ulf. Not far off— alwut 
three miles— Deer Island can be seen. It is almost as level as the water which surrounds it, and it makes a 
pleasant run for a short sail. Further out on the Gulf are Cat and Ship Islands. On the latter there was 
a military prison during the war, and many confederates were kept there under the galling wardenship of 
colored troops. That was one of (ieneral Ben. F. Butler's savage practical jokes. 

Fort Massachusetts was built on vSliip Island, and it was a place of considerable strength. aUlioui;li 
today the tourist will find that it has almost disappeared. But there was a more famous fort within the 
town. Fort Biloxi, where French soldiers for many years kept guard, and under the shelter of its guns the 
hardy traders who not only ventured up and down the coast, but even ran across to Mexico, have often rested. 
Tiie gay song of the light-hearted Canadian voyagers rang across the waters where now swells the solemn, 
glorious strains of the camp meeting hymns. No longer the sentinel tramps up and down the ramparts of 
the long deserted Fort watching for the Indian or the Spaniards, but merry children romp upon the beach in 
plaj', and men and women find health and strength in the breezes that come from the South and West. But 
still the countn.- is very much as the French found it. The face of nature has been but little changed. The 
immediate neighborhood of Biloxi is the same as it was a thousand years ago, and the waves of the Gulf 
still sparkle in the sunshine, or are lashed in the storm as when the Children of Israel were toiling through 
the desert to the Promised Land. In other parts of America man has almost entirely altered the appearance 
of the land, but here the physical conditions forbid anything of the kind. 

The road beyond Biloxi still skims along by the side of the Gulf, while the air is filled with the aroma 
of the pines which are green and beautiful the year around. The soil is very sandy yet the pine trees flourish, 
and a kind of long grass grows in great luxuriant tufts. Occasionally we catch a glimpse of the blue waters, 
now the train is dashing through the pines where there are long vistas between the trees, where the ground 
looks so soft and inviting that Bea, as on a former occasion, wishes that we could get out and take a stroll. 
It is through scenes like the.se that we pass until we reach Beauvoir. 

"This is the home of Mr. Jefferson Davis, President of the late Southern Confederacy," observes the 
conductor. 

"Can you see his house from the station?" asks Bea. 

And she is quite disappointed to learn that the mansion is not visible. vShe half hopes that the dis- 
tinguished gentleman will be waiting at the station to take the train for New Orleans, but he is not there 
to gratify her curiosity. Mr. Davis lives here on quite an extensive estate in a most quiet and unostenta- 
tious fashion. His da3-s are passed in studious retirement and he sees little or no company. 

Five miles beyond Beauvoir is Mississippi City, another charming place, and a resort of many attrac- 
tions. Man> people from New Orleans spend their summers here, and the long beach is an admirable place 
for bathing, while there is the best of fishing off it. Peace and quiet seem to brood over the town, and the 
houses with theit massive white pillars are in themselves an invitation to rest and enjo>-nient. All around 
are the most delightful walks, and nature appears to have made the region especially for man's delectation. 

*« Pass Ghjristian Qr\A l^ay St. Iiouis ^'■ 

These are the great places of resort for the New Orleanites. They are two beautiful towns which lie 
on either side of Bay St. Louis, and thej- are, to use a happy Biblical phrase, " altogether lovely." Pass 
Christian is the unique town of all viniqne towns. The man who called it Shostringville was very felicitous 
in his description. It stretches along the (iulf for six miles, and is but one house deep. Villas and cottages 
line the landward side of the hard, smooth, shell road which is the delight and pride of the residents, while 
in front of nearly all the houses a long narrow wharf stretched from the shore to deep water. As a rule these 
whan-es end in either a boat or a bath house. Many of these villas are built with an eye to " style," while 
others were plainly constructed for "solid home comfort." 

In the evening the shell road is fairly alive with vehicles, and this is the great event of the day among 
those who are summering or wintering at the Pass. And what a drive it is ! The road is as hard as asphalt, 
and it is as smooth as a ball room floor. The horses actually find it a pleasure to put their '•best foot 



foremost," ami many are tlie good-natured races which take place, the drivers encouraged to bring out all 
the speed there is in their animals by the smiles of the beauties of the South. Happy and light are the 
hearts that beat at Pass Christian, and gay are the revels at the splendid Mexican Gulf Hotel. When the 
summer with its heavy heat lies drowsily upon New Orleans its people flock to this favored spot. This is a 

"Delicious land of lavish lights and floating shades." 
And when at even-tide the light fades out of the West and the waters of the Bay softly roll upon the sand, 
the dreamer can well imagine that this is a region of romance and the realities of the present go with the 
dying day, and he repeats : 

" Little breezes, dusk and shiver, 
This the wave that runs forever 
By the island in the river 

Flowing down to Camelot. 
Four graj' walls, and four gray towers. 
Overlook a space of flowers. 
And the silent isle embowers 
The Lady of Shalott." 
.Vs the light of day goes out the lights in Bay St. Louis begin to twinkle across the water, and from 
the windows of the hotel there streams i Hood of splendor. The town is very much like its neighbor. There 




is a shell road, the same long narrow wharves and bathing houses, and the same beautiful summer residences 
half hidden by the luxuriant foliage. The Ellen N. cuts directly across the mouth of the Bay, on a long 
trestle. "We're taking a ride on the water," exclaimed Bea, as we crossed it. 

And it looked ver}^ much like it. Looking out of the car windows water was to be seen on either hand, 
and we could not have more thoroughlj- felt that we were on the sea, "the glorious sea," if we had been 
taking a ride iu an ocean steamer. But what a glorious view it was ! Far awa}- extended the blue Bay until 
shut in by sand}' headlands crowned with pine. The waters of the Gulf sparkled in the sunshine, bright and 
beautiful To the West lay Bay St. Louis with its white houses and pretty church forming a picturesque 
ensemble, while to the East lay Pass Christian. Sails dotted the horizon, and light pleasure yachts were dart- 
ing in and out. He who has seen this scene in the glory of the sunshine can never forget it. Search where 
you will on the Atlantic Coast or on the shores of the Great Lakes, nowhere is there a spot so purely beautiful 
and so favored b}- bounteous nature as this. 

The tourist bent on pleasure will doubtless be .surprised to learn that Bay St. Louis is a place of some 
commercial importance. It possesses the onh- wollen mill on the coast, and carries on a trade in lumber of 
considerable extent. At the head of the Bay are a number of logging streams and the timber of course comes 
from them. Its population is between 2,500 and 3,000. 

It is juist fifty-two miles by the Ellen N. from Bay vSt. Louis to New Orleans, and a mar\-elous stretch 
of road it is. Joaquim Miller rode over it on a glorious afternoon in December, and was fired with its beauty 



and unique loveliness. Well he knew how to describe the region, when he wrote: "And we are dashing^ 
right gainst the sun as it falls into the sea. The Crescent City and the great river are fifty, forty, thirty 
miles away. Lagoons behind us, and bayous before us and right and left of us. Little clumps of oaks and 
ash and beech are springing up right and left from out the vast brown levels of marsh ; and men hunt here 
for deer, thirty miles from the city, and shoot ' canvas backs ' by the ship load. 

"On, on in the face of the falling sun. The sun is in the sea. Hut there is a conflagration of 
earth and of air. The heavens are illuminated. They know we are coming. There is a scene of conquest, 
of di.scovery, as we come near this olden city by the great river, all in the face of the burning heavens. 
Ah, don't you know that if this sunset, this scene, this water and this land, this air and illumination 
were in Europe, the writers there — upheld, countenanced, encouraged by the country— would lift them up 
in glory, so that all the world should be com])elled to come and see.'" 

I read Bea what Joaquim Miller said, as we djished on through the marshes and glimmering lagoons. 

"Ah!" said she, "it takes a poet to put in words what one feels." 

And as we pass over these \'ast swampy levels, through which the lazy bayous trace their way-like 
canals, we remark that if the landscape were but furnished with a wind-mill or two that it would lie 
remarkably like Holland. The railroad here is a wonder of engineering skill. The swamp is almost 
fathomless ; the black ooze everywhere being .soft and yielding. For nearly thirty miles the track is either 
built upon ponderous piles, driven deep into the unsubstantial mire, or upon embankments of sand. 

"It took a world of labor to make these embankments," said an old railroader to me; "and in .some 
places they are adlually boxed in to protecft tliem from the slow sopping of the water." 

Waveland, Toulme and Claiborne are successively passed, and at last we reach the Rigolets. The 
"Rigolets" is nothing else than a strait, or sluggi.sh water way, connecting Lake Bargne, which is off the 
Gulf of Mexico, and Lake Ponchartrain. Steamers going from Mobile and along the coast reach the rear 
of New Orleans by this route. It is a queer spot, and it is hard to tell whether the land or water predom- 
inates. So level is the locality that the tall reeds hide the bayous that wind their devious ways in and out 
among them, and the boats that slowly move either toward New Orleans or the Gulf, seem to be gliding 
along the land. Lake Catharine is simply a station, where in the season, sportsmen come to shoot water fowl. 

"This calls to mind," obser\'ed Bea, as she looked out upon the beautiful stretch of the Lake and 
then upon the land, which seemed to be more or less like the lake, "the poets 'water, water everywhere.'" 

"And not a drop to drink," I added, "for it is horribly brackish." 

Six miles further on is Chef Mentum, another water way to Lake Tonchartrain. It is only a stopping- 
place in the marsh and the passenger looks with curiositj- upon the little custom house, liuilt on piles and above 
which floats the revenue flag, with its bars running the wrong way, and an old-fashioned circular fort which 
the Ellen N. passes within a stone's throw. It is Fort Macomb, built long ago to defend the rear approaches 
to the Crescent City. But now no flag flutters from its flag-staff and no sunrise or sunset gun sets the echoes 
rolling. No garri.son is needed there in "these piping times of peace," and so no officers or men are e.xiled 
to this dreary spot. Life in such a place with its unvarying routine must have been monotonous enough 
to have made the soldiers wish for the comparative liveliness of the tomb. And how much more inexpres- 
sibly solitary it must have been before the railroad cheered the spot with its presence. 

It is not a great distance now to New Orleans, and the Ellen N. on this home stretch goes through a 
region as wild and tropical as in the most characteristic portions of Florida. Rugged, gnarled live oaks lift 
themselves from the half reclaimed swamp land and their every branch is draped with long gray .Spanish Moss. 
Pines and Cypresses are hidden by this mysterious plant of the air, and it veils the nakedness of their limbs 
and kindly hides the ravages of time. The watery wa.stes are filled with palmettoes, whose green bayonet-like 
shafts gleam in the sunshine, while beneath them the lazy alligator slowlj' crawls awaj' frightened bj- the 
thunder of the rushing train. 

"Lor' bless you, miss," said the porter to Bea, "there's more 'gators in dis here swamp than dere's 
people in Norf America. When the>- all done built dis railroad de 'gators was so plenjous dat dey used 
them for railroad ties. Solemn truf ! for de Lor", miss, for I'se seed 'em a thousand times." 

And Bea smiles in verj' evident doubt. But now Lee, Micheand and Gentilh' have been passed and 
houses begin to appear on the right and left. We are in the environs of New Orleans and the train slows 
up as it enters the city. On and on, however, past the strange looking houses and narrow streets, until 
at last the Mississippi, Father of Waters, bursts upon our e\'es and we see the nmltitudinous vessels that 
lie at the far extended whar\-es, we catch a glimpse of the bu.sy levee, and while all these new and unac- 
customed sights are still bewildering us the train stops. Our journey for the present is over. We are in New 
Orleans and we find as we leave the car that Ellen N. has kindly brought us right into the heart of the city 
and landed us at the foot of Canal Street, the great central thoroughfare of the place. 




eanA 

" You'll find New Orleans just like a 
foreign cit}-," said a lady at the hotel to Bea, 
• and you can see it without crossing the ocean 
and being dreadfully sea-sick." " And do you 
know what I told her?" obser^-ed ray sister 
when she afterward quoted the remark to me. 
' ' No, what was it ? " " \V[\y, I said that riding 
on the Ellen N. to New Orleans and having a 
delightful time all the trip, was a great deal 
better than being sea-sick." But I must not 
wander away from the thread of my narrative 
to tell what we said, but what we saw. And 

If canal le Fre ch held swav, t; the west was the American quarter, and the long, tree-shaded promenade 
m ^"1" middle of the wide street was no man's land. Just now, however, th.s neutral ^-^d appears to la e 
been prettv thoroughlv monopobzed by the street cars. Every line m New Orleans, and by the waj Msitmg 
Bostonians, anxious to be minutely correct, call the cars "mule cars.' 



-f-Y'X^'.- 0--W 



starts on Canal street, and the cars 
alwavs beo-in and finish their tnp at the same place. There are little sentry- boxes in the middle of the street 
a tl^ croi nls and Bea and I were not long in finding that the men who occupied them were as good as 
fuide book 'Snal street," sagelv remarked Bea, "improves upon acquaintance. I never saw such a 
ftree? for shippiS and with the stores and windows all open so that yoi> can see everything there ,s to 
e 1 Then th^nk of he people we have seen, Americans, half a dozen different kinds. Frenchmen, Gennans 
Mexicli Spanrards taHans, and I don't know how many others." And I guess that it is a good street 
Mexicans, bpaniarcis, , ^ ^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ magnificent effects produced by distance, for 



for shopping, not to mention its splendid buildings and 

Bea dragged me into twenty stores where neither of us wanted to buy anjthing. 



I need hardly say that the 



first place wliicli \vc set oul lo visit in earnest was the Frendi Marki.t. \Vc had heard of it long Ixffore we 
had read tieorge \V. Cable's novels, still they had stirred our curiosity more than ever. To reach the market 
take a car on Canal street, or you can walk, as it is only aljont five squares from the Post Office. Were we 
disappointed.' No, the half has never lieen told. Of course, the market buildings are more or less like all 
such slni(5tures, except for their great si/e, but the diversified multiplicity of what is offered for sale is without 
a precedent, unless a score or two of Wandering Jews might get together, and fonning a pool, start an auction. 
The buyers and sellers are a study. 

"What in the world is there," I asked liea, ■llial can not In- hou-hl Ikix:' I ju.st saw a man .selling 
kid gloves, and I've noticed thai everything else thai ,i man miglil want for his toilet, from a pair of shoes 
to a silk hat, is for sale." 

"And I've noticed," she chimed in. "thai a woman might dress herself from top to toe, while you can 
furnish a hou.se, attic to cellar, not to mention the fact that there is almo.st enough food in sight to keep an 
anny for a week or two, and it includes all the 'delicacies of the season," as the papers say." 

And then the people! they furnish entertainment in themselves, and the mo.st careless observer finds 
something of interest from the old Indian woman— at lea.st they look old— who .sell reed baskets and gumbo, 
and on and on up to the prettiest and most modern French girl selling bon-bons. Ever>- visitor buys some- 
thing as a souvenir, and of course invests in fruit. Oranges and bananas purchased at the French market 
have a peculiar tropical sweetness, and really one never knows the real deliciousne.ss of Southern fruit until 
he goes South. Then, too, strangers must take a cup of cafe an tail, ore cafe iioir which, translated, means 
coffee with milk or black coffee. Bea said that the caf^ an lai I w-as about as bad as the coffee that our last 
new cook made, or rather tried to make ; but I found mine extremely palatable, while it was jolly fun to sit 
at one of the market tables and eat the fresh bayou oysters. 

Just oppo.site the market is Jackson vSquare and the Cathedral. In the center of the square is a statue 
of "Old Hickory," identical with the one we had already seen at Nashville. The square is a very pretty 
Park, filled with blooming tropical plants and shrubbery; while orange trees, yellow with fruit, shade the 
benches. Small, white shells fonn the paths which circle about the .square; and Bea was greatly taken with 
the children who romped around, chatting awa\- in French, and occasionally breaking out in English. 

"They play just like our Cincinnati children, ' remarked Bea, as though she had made an unlooked- 
for discovery. 

Then I went on to e.xplain that of cour.se they did, for Americans are Americans the world over ; and, 
my explanation finished, we strolled over to the Cathedral. It is a very old .stuccoed .structure, built in a 
semi-Spanish-Mexican style, and it .shows its age. We entered by the little side door, for the ponderous front 
doors are only opened on feast days and Sundajs. and were startled by the beaut>- of the interior. Here is 
some of the finest frescoeing and mural painting to be found on the continent. There is one especially 
fine piece back of the high altar. It is a picture of St. Louis; the good and gentle I/)uis IX. starting 
out on his last crusade. He is dressed in the garb of the Crusader, with the holy red cross upon his brea.st, 
his Queen stands by his side, while the nobles of his gorgeous Court and a brilliant array of Cardinals and 
prelates are ranged around. Then the pictures of the Apostles, heroic size, are most excellent. 

There was another church which we visited, and which the stranger should not miss seeing. It is the 
Church of the Jesuits on Baronne street, just a square from Canal ; and its elaborate interior decorations 
remind one of some of the splendidly ornamented halls in the Alhambra. 

But to return to the Cathedral. On either side is a characfteristically .Spanish building, whose heavj- 
pillared arcades are unique. The>- are used as Court Houses, and it seems very odd to see modem, nineteenth 
century notices of law-suits stuck over their ancient, seventeenth centurj- sides. 

Of course we rambled over the French part of the city and saw its beauties a-foot. All visitors see the 
French quarter on foot — that is, if they see it at all— for riding is simply an aggravation ; then, beside, ven,- 
few of the streets are wide enough to ride through, anyhow. 

"These houses are a never-ending surpri.se," said Bea, after one of these long rambles. "There are 
no duplicates, and each hou.se .seems to have been built on a plan of its own." 

I need not say that the result has been peculiar. The houses in New Orleans admit of everything; 
but one thing they must have, and that is, plenty of verandas. One veranda will not answer— there must 
be verandas on verandas and shaded balconies on shaded balconies. But, if the visitor is not wary, he will 
find that the channing bric-a-brac stores in the FVench quarter will utterly drain his pocket-book ; but, at the 
same time, the French restaurants will fill his stomach and make life .seem worth the living. The restaurants 
are intensely New Orleanish. The\- are not only one of the institutions, but one of the curiosities. You are 
ser\'ed a delicious dinner — the cooking being thoroughly and delightfully French — for fifty cents, and a small 
bottle of light wine comes with it. Dinner is not eaten until late in the afternoon, for here people .sen.sibly eat 
their heavy meal at their leisure, after the day's work is done, and the evening is given up to social amusement. 

Bea had somehow formed the idea that Lake Ponchartrain was a big, muddy pond, and she was ver\- 
much surprised on visiting it to find an inland lake, whose waters stretched awa\' until the sky closed down 
upon them. There are two places on the Lake which are to be seen. West End and Spanish Fort. To reach 
them take the dummy, or narrow gauge railway, that .starts on Canal .street above Carondelet. The fare is 
only fifteen cents. These two resorts are the Coney Island and Rockaway Beach of New Orleans. Here are 
magnificent gardens, rare trees, broad pavillions, great hotels; and in the sultry nights of .summer the people 



lUji. 




throng here by the thousands. They listen to the music, see a comic opera or 
comedv promenade through the grounds or gather at the tables and talk 
o\er their cream and lemonade, or it is perhaps something stronger. We 
found the ride to the lake very charming. The roads lead directtly through 
the •,wamps which environ New Orleans; and its distinctively tropical 
vegetation was grateful to our Northern eyes. On the return-trip from 
West End stop-off, at the cemeteries, it will cost nothing extra— 
-md take a stroll through them. It is hard to say whether the 
(.1(1 or new cemeterj- is the most interesting. Of course everybody 
kn.Avs the dead are buried in tombs above the ground; for if 
-ra\ LS were dug they would be filled with water even as the spade 
went down into the earth. Some of the tombs are more than a 
century old, and the epitaphs in French, you know, breathe a spirit 
of simple piety that is beautiful. The tombs and monuments in 
the new cemetery are more pretentious than those which were built 
earlier, and are more in keeping with modern ideas. We especially 
noted the tomb of General Albert Sidney Johnson— that brave South- 
ern soldier, who fell fighting at the awful battle of Shiloh— and 
the monuments to General Robert E. Lee and the Confederate dead. 
Many of these tombs are built like miniature Grecian temples. 
Others follow the lighter Gothic style of architecture ; while again 
others have been built according to the uncurbed fancy of the 
architedl. "I don't want to be sacreligious," obser\-ed Bea, as we 
passed beneath an orange tree in the new cemeter\ but some 
of these tombs are just fitted for the Romeo and Juliet stor\ 
You see that a young girl's fancv lighth turns 
to thoughts of love tales even amid the most 
solemn surroundings; and the en\iron 
ments of these cemeteries are most cer 
tainly solemnly mournful. All around the 
gloomy swamp shuts them in, while the 
hea\j with 



tall cedars and live oaks, 
drooping Spanish moss, 
close the vista. These 
bare trees are inexpressibly 
sad. Many are dead; yet the 
.M \(,N()i I vs. moss, which has sucked the 

sap of their life, still lives 
and flourishes. Where could a better emblem be found of that specter 
of which Coleridge speaks, Life in Death? And now we take the cars, a 

riding #ast beautiful residences and wide extended gardens— themselves worth 
visit, we are again amid the hum and bustle of Canal street. On :Mardi Gras 
and Christmas Eve this great thoroughfare, always interesting and attracts e 
is at its best. It is then superlative. Christmas Eve is observed by a grind 
imitation, or rather realistic representation, of Pandemonium. Bea keeps -i 
diary, and I remember that she graciously read me some extracts, one of which 
ran as follows : " 'Tis the night before Christmas, and all of the boys are blow 
ing tin horns and making a noise." Noise is a mild term— infernal racket would 
be°better. Northern people think Fourth of July is bad enough, but it does not 
begin to compare with Christmas Eve in New Orleans. All the city throngs 
Canal street, and everybody that is not blowing a tin horn is firing off Chinese 
crackers or fire -works of some kind. Overhead, the long row of electric light 
twinkle and blaze ; and below, the wide avenue seems on fire. All is light ind 
movement ; everybody is joyously laughing. Even the pretematurally solemn 
mules of the street cars grow frisky and sportive, and fling up their heels in i 
highly suggestive manner. On Christmas Eve all New Orleans is bent on 
having a good time and making a noise ; and they succeed. But when INIardi 
Gras comes the city is yet madder and merrier. Flags and gay banners flutter 
from all the houses, and when night comes the Carnival is wildly joyous 
Then comes the gorgeous procession of the INIystic Krewe, which presents 
one of the most brilliant spectacles in the worid. I feel, however, that 
it is almost a waste of time and paper to speak of the Carnival; for where 
is there a traveler who has not read all about it a hundred times? At the foot ot 
Canal street, and just bevond the L. & N, Depot, is the levee, where is piled 








BE.\'S M.\RDI-GR,\S. 



the merchandise of an extensive and ever-growing trade. There are hales and hales of cotton, hundreds of 
harrels of sugar, and hogsheads of molasses without number; while there are enough roustatxjuts, all 
singing their strange songs, to people a colony. The great ocean steamers lie side by side with the "floating 
palaces" that ply up and down the Mississippi. Perhaps a man-of-war lies in mid-channel, with her bow 
sturdily pointed up-stream, while the flag of her nation floats from the peak. Across the river lie the 
towns of Algiers and Tunis. The river makes a grand sweep as it flows toward the Gulf beyond the city, 
and this is called the "English Turn." In the war of 1S12 the English sailed up to this point, but they 
never went further. Gen. Jackson stopped them, and the old battle-ground is still to be seen. In the 
late war the batteries of Chalmette were planted on the spot, and hard by is the Great National Cemetery, 
where hundreds of the "lx)ys in blue" lie awaiting the bugle-blast which wll summon them to "fall in" 
the Eternal Ranks. Here is the G. A. R. monument, and the visitor will i nd it worth seeing. Walking 
down the levee as far as Esplanade street, the U. S. Mint is reached, the Sugar E.xchange having been 
passed on the way. 

Hea and I not only took the customary trip to the "jetties," which are really very interesting — 
although the ride on the river and the views in /•ussaiit are by far the best part of the journey — but we 
took a ride up the river and visited several sugar plantations. A good plan is to go up the river as far 
as Baton Rouge, and then come back. The tourist obtains in this way an excellent idea of the country, 
sees the levees, the bayous, and learns more about Louisiana along the river than he could if he read a 
thousand books. 

Once again in New Orleans, we rambled again over the streets, now grown familiar, but none the 
less attracflive. Again we visited the gloomy post-oflice, dark and heavy externally, with its Egyptian 
exterior, but with a great hall, which quite redeems the struclure. This hall is of white marble, and at 
one end is a very handsome piece of mural sculpture. There is the pelican nursing her young, the seal 
of Louisiana ; and on one side is Bier\'ille, founder of New Orlean.s — and on the other Jackson, its defender. 
Again we took long rides through the residence streets ; and in fadl the city is more or less a huge suburb. 
Once more we delighted in the oddities of the French quarter, and reveled in the deliciousness of the fruit 
purchased in the French market. Then we packed up our traps and prepared to take a nm through 
Florida. But I must say a word about the hotels. The tourist will find that in New Orleans he can 
secure first-class accommodations at just what he would pay in other American cities. And, if he wishes, he 
can secure rooms and eat where he pleases ; for the restaurants are not only numerous, but exceptionally good. 

If the traveler is going further West, he can slip over to Galveston, Texas, and from thence on 
through the Lone Star State to Mexico. 



'''^^0 ^/ejb 




W. X. HAI.DEMAN, HAIL Y. 

rRHS.DKNT. WEEk'LY. 



HENRY WATTILRSON, 



THE Louisville Qourier- J ournal , 

THE REPRESENTATIVE NEWSPAPER OF THE SOUTH, 

Its Weekly Issue having the Largest Ci rculation of any Democratic 



T 



Newspaper in the United States. 

HE COURIER-JOURNAL has a national reputation; it is tiie acknowledged Representative Newspaper of 
the South; is Democratic in Politics; and, first, last, and all the time, is for a Reduction of the War Taxes, 
as levied on the people by the tariff "ow in force. •■■■■"'' 

The Daily and Sunday editions of the Courier-Journal are not only recognized as the direct representa- 
tives of a vast majority of the newspaper readers in Louisville and in tlie State of Kentucky, but also have a 
wide circulation throughout the South and West. ...-•.-• 

THE WEEKLY COURIER-JOURNAL is tiie best weekly newspaper published in the United States, and> 
for the quantity and quality of matter that appears in each issue of it, it is the Cheapest. Its Telegraphic News 
facilities outclass any other paper, and it has the services of the ablest writers and correspondents in the country. 
It presents the News of the Week from every section of the world. It gives to its readers, throughout the year, 
a greater number of Serial and Sh»rt Stories by prominent and popular writers than any of the high-priced maga- 
zines. It is in every respect a Model Political and Family Paper. ..••-• 
The Weekly Courier Journal has nv far the Largest 
Circulation of any Democratic Newspaper in America. 

The Weekly Courier-Journal has no rival in the South. The Southern people recognize it as being in 
full sympathy with their social life, and as the ablest and truest exponent of their political convictions. Its circula- 
tion among farmers is equal to that of any exclusive agricultural weekly. Into their homes it is warmly welcomed 
as a friend and we say with confidence that satisfactory returns are certain from any investment in its advertising 
columns Its circulation in some of the Southern States is equal to that of the combined circulation of all the 
newspapers of those States. It is acknowledged by press and people throughout the United States to be a great 
paper— great in size, great in enterprise, great in ability, great in its correctness of information, great m variety 
great in every sense of the word. It is the paper that everybody should have. • • ■ • 

There are but few post-offices in all the South that it does not go to every week in the year. It is not 
only creditable to the enterprise of its publishers, but equally a credit to the city of Louisville, where it is pub 
lished that the Weekly Courier-Journal should have attained the enormous circulation our subscription list: 
show 'it to have. It regularly visits each week in the year over ioS,ooo homes— the homes of its yearly subscribers 
-and, as each copy sent out has at least four or five readers, it regularly reaches over half a million readers. 

. A list of handsome and useful premiums, of great variety, are offered free to yearly subscribers. On 
FREE PREMIUMS, receipt of a request for them, we will send, /,<.<r of charge, a sample copy of Weekly Courier-Jolrnal 
and our Premium Supplement, giving our full list of premiums, to any address. 

StJBSCRIl=TION TKRMS. 

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For every Club of Five Sanies sent ns at one time, the sender of Club will be sent, 

as SI present, any one of our Free rrenllunis, selected by him. 

Daily (except Sunday), one year '°-o° 

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Daily (except Sunday), one month, i-°° 

Sunday, one year, I2.00 Sunday, six months, i.oo 

. No Traveling Agents are employed by the Coirier-Joi-rnai., but a good Local Agent is wanted for it in every com- 
munity, to whom a liberal cash commission is allowed. If the Courier-Journai. has no Local Agent in your neighborhood, 
send to us for our Agent's Canvassing Outfit, which we send free of charge. . . ■ ■ ■ 

ftsr \\\ advertisements, subscription orders, requests for outfits, sample copies, etc., should be addressed to 

W. N. HALDEMAN. • Ju'SSiSu-ISco. • Louisville, Kv. 



ists 



Ohio rails C><ar (^ 



JEFFERSONVILLE, IND. 



om|3any, 







1 ■, to 20 P reisjht Cars per da 

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1 25 I' issenger Cars per year. 



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Our facilities for obtaiiiini,^ materials (Coal, Iron and Lumber), both by river and rail, 
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DR. JOHN BULL'S 

Smiths TonTcSyrup 

FOR THE CURE OK 

FEVER AND AGUE, OR CHILLS AND FEVER, 

AND ALL MALARIAL DISEASES. 



THE proprietor of this celebrated medicine justly claims for it a superiority over all 
remedies ever offered to the public for the safe, certain, speedy and permanent cure 
of Ague and Fever, or Chills and Fever, whether of short or long standing. He refers 
to the entire western and southern country to bear him testimony to the truth of the 
assertion that in no case whatever will it fail to cure if the directions are strictly followed 
and carried out. In a great many cases a single dose has been sufficient for a cure, and 
whole families have been cured by a single bottle, with a perfect restoration of the 
general health. It is, however, prudent, and in every case more certain to cure, if its 
use is continued in smaller doses for a week or two after the disease has been checked, 
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KENT'S VEGETABLE FAMILY PILLS will be sufficient. b^-Use no Other Pills. 



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Prin cipal Office. • LOUISVILLE KY. " 831 Wes t Main St 



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Tie Magnolia is the Largest Ciiiv of strictly Winter iSugar-Ciired 
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SPRING HILL DISTILLERY ^» 
• HMMAOE . SOURJVIASH WHISKY. 




THE "Spring Hill" Whisky is the product of a distillery located near Frankfort, Franklin 
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TT is rich and full in flavor, without the coarseness characteristic of so much of the Kentucky 
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recommend it. The picture accompany 
the Distillery premises. 



thi 



advertisement 



the invalid we unhesitatingly 
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order that persons, who desire to secure Whisk>-, good and in every wa\- 

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;OR the reliability of our statements we refer to the Bankers, Merchants, Physicians and the 
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PROPR IETORS, 

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GEN'L AGENT S. 

LOUISVILLE. KY. 



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ABSOLUTE SAFI'TY FOR SOUTIIF.RX IIOMl-: 



. . • GOI.l) MKDAl. A\VARl)i:i) • • • 
World's Incluistrifil l£>cposition, New Orleans. 



BRANCHES 



Albany, Ga. 
Ailanta, Ga. 
Aii<justa, Ga. 
Birmin.srliam, Ala. 
Brunswick, Ga. 
Cairo, Ills. 
Charleston, S. C. 
Charlotte, N. (". 
Chattanooga, Tenn, 
Chicago, Ills. 
Columbia, S. C. 
Columbus, Ga. 
Helena, Ark. 
Henderson, Ky. 
Jacksonville, Fla. 



TURPENTINE 




COI.n MKD.-\L AVV.\RDEn 

BY THE 

Southern • Exposition, 

LOUISVILLE, KY. 




BRANCHES 

Lexington, Ky. 
Ludlow, Ky. 
Lumber Ciiy, Ga. 
Macdu, Ga. 
.M()l)ile, Ala. 
Memphis. Tenn. 
Meridian, Miss. 
Nashville, Tenn. 
New Orleans, La. 
Owenshoro, Ky. 
Pudacah, Ky. 
Pensacola, Fla. 
Savannah, Ga. 
\'ickshurg, Miss. 
Wilmington. N. C. 



ROSIN 



WRAMPELMEIER & CO 



MANUFACTURERS : 



^V1^0T. ESALE A ND 

. . RETAIL DEALE RS 

IN ALL KI.NDi 



. FaRNiraRE, Mattresses, Ere. 




CHAMBER, 

Dkawinu Room, 



ryRNiryRE 

LIBRARY, 

Dining Room & 

OFFICE. 



HOTEL, 

Public Hall, 

LODGE, 



aPH0LStERV 

SOCIETY, 

CHURCH, 

BANK, Etc. 



STORES: - 544, 546, 548 & 550 Foarth Ave, FACTORY: - Fifleenth, Rowan and Portland Ave, 

LOUISVIT.LE, KV. 




Hll5 







ICSTvVBUIJSHEI), 183S. 



Cornwall & Brother, 



LOUISVILLH, KY. 



I-INE MILLED TOILET AND LAUNDRY 



• Soaps -Candles 



Speci£il l-*rice5i on A.pplioi^ition. 



KSTA.R]^ISHE1) 1829. 



BRIDGEFORD & CO 



.y.i\('/:i(Tiu/:h's or 



AlVEERICAN HOT 



RESTAUR AN T 
• and FANl 



E RANGES 




ALSO, SOLE AL-iyCFACTURERS OF T/IF 



Royal Amp:rican Wood and Columbian Coal 



G00KING STOVES 



FRANKLTN • ORIENT 



\D A 1(1.!. I.I.\I: «'/•■ 



Heating and Cooking Stox^es. 

LOUISYILLK, KV Sei^cl for CeataloKue . BrIDGEFORD CC Oo. 



W. p. PYNE, 



MACHINIST, MILLWRIGHT AND MILL FURNISHER. 




MANUFACrrRKR Ol- 



Porlablelmiaiid- Wheat -Mills, 



MILL MACHINERY. 



ALSO, lU'ILHER OF 



STONE AND ROLLER MILLS 

■ OF LATEST STYLES • 
Special Attention given to Grinding and Corrugating Bolls. 



CONSTANTLY ON HAND FULL LINES OF 



HOSE. BELTING. PACKING. BRASS GOODS. IMPE AM) PIPE EITTIXGS. 



MANUFACTURERS' SUPPLIES 



joBiuNG .i.xD A'/-:r.i/A'/\(; soi.iciri:n 






AGENT FOR THF. CELKBRATED 

r:UREKA WIXI) MILLS AND PUMPS 

FOR SlI'PLVINi; STOCK WATKR 



1 107 West Main Street, LOUISVILLE. KY. 



Barbee&Castleman. 



Kire Insuirance • Managers, 



504 Main Street, Louisville, Ky. 



CONTROL 



$40,000,000 



Fire Capital. 




ADJUST 

AND 

Pay Their Own 
LOSSES. 



M.A.x^Ob;i-ia OK THtc 



ROYAL I NSURANCE ■ COMPANY 



London • Lancashire- Fire Insurance Company, 

OF LI\"ERPOOL. 
AGENTS THROUGHOUT THE SOTTTH. 



•DryG oqps * 



CARTER BROTHERS & CO. 

Importers and Jobbers, 
729, 731, ^2,7^ West Main Street, 

Louisville, Ky. 



New York Office 



115 Worth Street. 



N0TI0NS AND-FaRNISHINsGeeBS 




LOUISVILLE HOTEL CO. 

• PROPRIETORS ■ 

LLOYD \V. WHITLOW. 



<g 



Louisville Hotel 



Main- Street, LOUISX'ILLE, KV. 



Xv 



HE GHIGAGO 



Gar scAb Ge. 



U 1-^ 1-^ I C li 



Room 4. Quincy Buildiii^ y, CHICAGO ILLS. ^""- 1 13 Adams Stree t. 



MAKE AN EXCLUSIVE Sl'ECIALTV OF MANUFACTURING 

Crir Seals, 



Seal log Piai:LclT.es . . . . 

and Presses, 

Car Dooi^ Seal LocU^ 
and Kasteriers, 

AND HVHRVTHlXi; PHRTAIXING TO THH CAR SEALING BUSINESS. 



W 



E HAVE EXTENSIVE FACILITIES. AND CAN OFFER SPECIAL INDUCEMENTS BY PROMPTNESS 
AND LOW PRICES. SAMPLES AND MODELS SENT, AND PRICES GIVEN ON APPLICATION 



We Solicit Your Business, and will he Pleased to Furnish 



Any Desired Information. 



WM. S. BREWSTER, :=.: ■ A. H. PEIRCE 

President. Stc'v .s: Treas. 



I Ikrdy Co. 




■^ BRINLY, MILES & HARDY CO. Louisville, Ky, 



]A)\V AND HKtH PRESSUKK 



Steam W 



arming- and .^. 



# VentilatmcT Mpparatus, 



SIMPLIFIED AND ADAPTED TO WARMING 



<INOS OF 



PUBLIC AND PRIVATE BUILDINGS, RESIDENCES, CHURCHES. DEPOTS, Etc. 




HOT WATER APPARATUS FOR GREEN HOUSES. Etc. 



Baker Patent Car Warmer 



Baker, Smith & C>«o, 



8i & 83 Jackson Street, 



CHICAGO, ILLS. 










-C-.ri_j-^^. 



•^SpaRd^islel-^ 



Opp. Grand Central Depot. 



Cor. Fourth & Central Ave. 



CINCINNATI. O. 



RAXES: — S3. OO and $4.00 per TDay 



ROOMS WITH BATHS AND PARLORS EXTRA. 



WHAT- COMcStROPIC CYLINDER OIL 



On a leading Railroad during the month of Septcmbei last, twenty round trips were made by 
alternating engineers on each locomotive. The result is, 

7480 MILKS FROM 91 PINTS, or 82A MILKS I'J'R IMM oF TRdl'IC (YLINDFR nlL, 

besides oiling Rod Bearings and Air Brakes. 

During the month of October last, engines on the sameRoad, running in same way, made 

5680 MILKS FROM 60 PIMS, or 945 MILKS PI-R PINT OF TROPIC CYLIXDKR OIL, 

besides oiling si.\ or eight Rod Bearings and usual Air Brakes. 

On a different division of the sameRoad, engines operated in the same manner, made 

2260 MILKS KROM 25 PINTS, or 90! MILKS PKR PINT OF TROPIC CYLIXDKR OIL, 

besides oiling Roil Bearings and Air Brakes. 

The general average of mileage from our oil, for these two months, in all service, is not far from 
62 miles per pint, and we are certain, with exceptionally favorable devices for feeding the oil, all these 
figures could have been greatly increased ; but what we desire to show is actual average results. We 
want the benefit of the facts only. 

Sample lots will be cheerfully sent to any Railroad desiring it, and we are certain of convincing 
even the most skeptical that, as to valve lubricants, 

TROPIC CYLINDER OIL IS "BEST VALUE." 

Respectfully, 
CINCINNATI a„d ST. LOUIS. INLAND OIL COMPANY. 



NEVER A DISTRESSED JOURNAL FROM POLAR GREASE, 



-OLLOWS THREE 



First — Hut Waste and pour on just enough car oil to wet the fibre of the waste through and through. It is 
better to let stand and thoroughly soak for awhile. 

Second — Put Oil and Polar Grease and mix together to the consistency of batter. 

Third — Put the contents of tub No. i and No. 2 together and tlie Waste tlioroughly saturated with the mixture. 
Your packing is now ready for the packer's use. 

Journals dressed with this rich, fatty packing, run for weeks with but the least attention, rarely heat, and net a 
large mileage for a comparatively trifling cost. 



MORE THAN HALF the trouble with journals arises 
from carelessly packing them. Every experienced 
Car Inspector knows this. By the plan herein shown 

The Waste is .made More Elastic, and holds better 
up to journal. ...... 

The Oil Cheapens the First Cost of the Lubri- 
cant, and distributes it over the surfaces to greater 
advantage. ....... 

The Grease supplies Bodv and Actual Lubkicat- 
ING Power to the oils, which are too thin and lean 
in anti-friction for the Fast Passenger or heavily 
loaded Freight Trains of this day. 



IN A WORD, the economy, the efficiency, and the 
lasting qualities of this Lubricating Compound are 
beyond comparison the best obtainable. 

These are Words ok Sober Truth. We have numer- 
ous letters from managers of leading railways, 
certifying to the success they have had with our 
Polar Grease, used ..... 

First.— FoK Hot Bo.x Cure. . . • 

Second.— IcoR Hot Bo.x Preventive. 

I®- Used as above stated, we guarantee satisfaction 
or no bills payable. .... 

Orders Solicited. 



IXI.AXI) OIL COMPANY. C\ 



.NATi .\Mi St. Lor 



]])uplex*3^^^ni ''Pumps 




F OR COMPACTNESS, SIMPLICITY, QUIETNESS. RE LIABILIT Y AND DURABILITY 
THESE PUMPS HAVE NO EQUAL. 

HALL STEAM PUMP COMPANY 

91 Liberty Street, NeW YoRK. 



A. S.WHITON, 

115 Broadway, - - New York. 



S teel rails, and 



R ail fastenings. 

— ^S teel blooms, and - 

Steel rail crops. 



• RAILWAY » EQUIPMENTS # 

Portland Cement and Block Chalk, 

Old Rails and Railway Supplies, 

Turntables and Rail Crossings. 



T ONTRACTS 



made for delivery in the united states, west ind ies, 

south AMERICA OR F. O. B. ENGLISH PORTS. 



SOLE Ar.F.NT IN THE INITED STATES FOR 



The Northfleet Coal & Ballast Company, 

I.lMlTF.n. OF LOXnON. 



S. ROGERS, President. 

R. S. HUGHES. Sec'y & Treas. 



Rogers Locomotive ( 

PATERSON, NEW JERSEY. # and MacHme Works, 

New York Office, 44 Exchange Place. 




<^GAST-STEEU•yORI^S^ 
FRIED, KRUPP, ESSEN, GERMANY. 

American Ofticc, 15 Gold Street, New York. 

RKI'RKSENTKD HV 

THOS. PROSSER & SON, 

1^. (). Box 13S7S. 



LOCOMOTIVE TIRES. ..... 

AXLES, CRANK PINS, 

• PISTON AND COUPLING RODS, 

SPRING AND TOOL STEEL. 
STEEL FORCINGS, UP TO FIFTY TONS ■ 

STEEL OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, FORGED, ROLLED, Etc 
INTO ANY FORM OR ARTICLE DESIRED 



« Steel-Tired •Wheels • 

THESE Works cover an area of 1,200 acres, employ about 18,000 men, have the most improved plant and stand 
unique. They have their own Ore and Coal Mines, Blast Furnaces, etc., and every stage of manufacture is 
under their own supervision, and they are not (like others) dependent on the open market for a miscellaneous 
assortment of crude material. This, in connection with seventy-five years' e.xperience, enables them to turn out 
a product of very superior quality, second to none, and at the same time the different grades of Steel are always 

of the SAME UN'IFORM QUALITY. 

We beg to call special attention to KRUPP'S CRUCIBLE STEEL LOCOMOTIVE TIRES, which for the last 
thirty years have proved themselves to be tlie best and cheapest in the market. 

While the first cost of these is greater than of Open Hearth Steel (the grade usually furnished by other 
makers), it has been fully demonstrated that the e.xtra amount invested in Krupp's Crucible Steel Tires, is more 
than refunded by the increased wear obtained from them, to say nothing of their freedom from breakage, and the 
saving elTected in shop account, etc., by extra length of time Engines can be run before requiring Tires turned. 

We call attention to the superior quality of Krupp's Axles, Crank Pins, Piston Rods, etc., which are being 
used by several of the leading Railways with most satisfactory results. 

Being in daily cable communication with Works, we fill orders at short notice. 

When ordering rolling stock, inserting in specifications that "Krupp's' 
Tires. Wheels (adding style of Wheel, with thickness, width and (lualiiy of 
Tire), Axles, etc., are to be used, will insure satisfactory articles. 



ESTABUISHEU ISliT. 



Joseph Dixon C^rucible C>«o, 



JERSEY CITY, N. J. 



MLXERS. IMPORTERS. AND MA.WFACT CRERS 



GRAPHITE 




MAKERS OF THE CELEBRATED 



» DIXON'S S^IS?^ PENCILS* 

UNRIVALED for smoothness and toughness of Leads, freedom from grit, and unitormity of grades.— 10 grades 
of hardness for Artists and Draughtsmen — 7 grades for Office and School use, and over 500 other kinds 
in No. 2 and 3 leads for general use. ......•• 



T 



ALSO MANUFACTCREKS OF 

c- DIXON'S 'or,Ko'/ STOVE POLISH * 

HE oldest, best, and most reliable Stove Polish in tlie market. No dirt, no smell, and the quickest to 
produce a lasting polish. ........ 



c. DIXON'S PURE DRY AMERICAN GRAPHITE* 

ITS superiority as a lubricant has been attested by all recent writers on friction. Its enduring qualities are 
several times greater than those of any oil. Unlike either oil or grease it is not affected by either heat or 
cold, steam or acids. It is equally useful for metal or wood surfaces. .... 

^•DIXON'S PLUMBAGO CRUCIBLES •> 

Are the standard in this country and in Europe. \\\ sizes from \ lb. to 6lW lb. capacity. 



* DIXON'S RAILWAY CAR GREASE 

Is unsurpassed for hot boxes and general lubricating purposes for railroads. 



We shall be pleased i 



any and all inquiries concerning our products and to send explanatory circulars. 



The Luuisville Ov: Xasliville R. R. use the Dixuii I'ruducis. 



■ Ih.s Ad. in Uie L. & N. Book.) 



Ti 



HE UNITED STATES « 



OLLING STOCK CO. 



OKKKRiS FOR 

Lease to Railroads, 

Freight Lines, 

Mining- Companies, 
Locomotive Engines, And Others , 

Refrigerator Cars, 

Box, Stock, Gondola, 

Dump and Flat Cars. 



' S PREPARED TO BUILD FOR LEASE AND ON CONTRACT FOR CASH. OR UNDER THE CAR 
TRUST SYSTEM. .SUCH ROLLING STOCK AS MAY BE REQUIRED. 



CAPACITY OF SHOPS: 



.VEll^ WORKS AT HEGF.U'ISCH, 



'r\\"enty Cars per Day. 



AT URBANA, OHIO, 

Sixteen Cars per Day. 



STORAGE YARDS:— Hk.(;ewiscii, Ii.i.s., Urbana. O. 



33 W^n ^/t New Vorlc A. Htut W 1 jlH, I FCS I. l^G Lc. S^lle Stre*.t 



Mann Boudoir Car 



COMFORT! . PRIVACY! ■ LUXURY 



PERFECT VENTILATION ! • NO DUST ! • NO NOISE! 



These Maoiiificeiif Cars are now running on the following Roads : 

Cincinnati, New Orleans & Texas Pacific Railway, (Queen & crescent.) 

c/NC/xx.-i r/ A.vn .yew Orleans. 

Leave Cincinnati 7:40 A. M., 8:47 p. M. Leave New Orleans 12:30 p. M., 8:55 P. M. 



Louisville (!<: Nashville and Queen & Crescent Roads. 

LOUISVILLE AND CHATTANOOGA. 
Leave Louisville 9:05 p. m. Leave Chattanooga 6:25 p. m. 



Georgia Pacific and Queen cSc Crescent. . . . . 

ATLANTA AND NEIV ORLEANS. 
Leave Atlanta 4:30 p. m. Leave New Orleans 12:30 p. m. 

Queen & Crescent, E. T. Y. & G., and S. F. & W. Railways. 

CINCINNATI AND JACASONr/LLE, FLA. 
Leave Cincinnati 7:40 a. m., 8:47 p. m. Leave Jacksonville 7:30 a. m., 7:00 p. m. 



Queen & Crescent, W. & A., and Central of Georgia Roads. 

CINCINNATI AND JACk'.SONlTLLE. FLA. 
Leave Cincinnati 8:47 p. m. Leave Jacksonville 7:00 p. 



Wabash, St. Louis & Pacific Railway. . . . . 

CHICAGO AND ST. LOCIS. 
Leave Chicago 9:30 p. m. Leave St. Louis 8:00 p. m. 

CHICAGO AND KANSAS CITY. 
Leave Chicago 12:30 noon. Leave Kansas City 6:30 p. m. 

TOLEDO AND ST. LOUIS. 
Leave Toledo 2:30 p. m. Leave .St. Louis 6:40 p. M. 



Chicago, Detroit & Niagara Falls Short Line. 

CHICAGO A. YD DETROIT. 
Leave Chicago 8:45 p. m. Leave Detroit 9.30 p. m 



New York & Boston Express Line, (springfieid.) N. Y. N. H. & IL c^- P.. & A. Rds. 

NEir YORK A.VD BOSTON. 
Leave New York 10:30 p. m. Leave Boston i 



PRIVATE CARS~The private cars, "Adelina Patti," "Etelka Gerster," and •'Janauschek," undoubtedly 
' — ' the handsomest cars in the world, are for hire for short or long trips. 



TV/f ANN'S BOUDOIR CAR CO. is now prepared to treat with R. R. companies for placing their cars in regular 
service on their lines. For Airther particulars and descriptive books apply to 

NIANN'S BOUDOIR CAR CO- 

IS T^^on^^^v£\y. (whiles Blu.dingi Xt'-NV Vork. 



George Westinghouse, Jr., President. H. H. Westinghouse, General Agent. 

John Caldwell, Treasurer. T. \V. Welch, Superintendent. \V. W. Card, Secretary-. 



THE = 



Westinghouse * Air-Brake-*- C^o. 

PITTSBURGH, PA., U. S. A. 



M.\XLI-A( TrRKKS OT TIIK 



We stinghouse Automatic Brake, 

Westinghouse Locomotive Driver Brake, 

Vacuum Brakes, 

(Westin^hious^e ;ind Siiaithi Patents). 



»WESTlNGHefelSE- FREIGHT- BRAKE* 

'T'HE AUTOMATIC FREIGHT BRAKE is essentially the same apparatus as the .\utomatic Brake for passenger 
^ cars, e.\cept that the various parts are so combined as to form practically one piece of mechanism, and is sold 
at a very low price. The saving in accidents, flat wheels, brakemen's wages, and the increased speed possible 
with perfect safety, will repay the cost of its application within a very short time. 



'T'HE "Automatic" has proved itself to be the most efficient Train and Safety Brake known. Its application is 
instantaneous ; it can be operated from any car in the train if desired, and should the train separate, or hose 
or pipe fail, it applies automatically. A GUARANTEE is given customers against loss from P.\TENT SUITS 
on the apparatus sold them. 



The WESTINGHOUSE BRAKE is now fitted to upwards of . . . . 

12.000 ENGINES AND 60,000 CARS, 

and is adopted by the princi[)al Railways in all parts of the world. 



Full I u format ion Funiisbcd on Application. 



11 

llillfilSftBiiK^^^ 






% 



feu.: 






:. "^ .TjtTi 



"'"'*' # ',jr'^'2^^^^:^^^^i«i! 



rt: 






irrrrrKr^mrrTTr^^ELLLLyuj^ 



'ic^^^jJtiirj "1 



DAILY CAPACITY. 

MILL "A." 7,000; MILL "B," 2,000; "ANCHOR," 1500; TOTAL. 10,50.) Bbls. 



G 



has. A. Pillsbury & Co, 

MERCHANT MILLERS, Minneapolis, Minn. 



Geo. a. Pillsbury. 
John S. Pillsbury. 
Chas a Pillsbury. 
Fred. C. Pillsbury. 



eyR BRANBS 

Pillsbury's Best. • Carleton. 

Diamond. Reform. • Success. • Anchor. 



Reform. 
Minnesota Belle. 



Pillsbury. 



Straight. 



Alaska. 



Crowi 



Tonka. 



THESE mills are three in number, with a capacity of 10,500 bbls. per day, or 
nearly 3,000,000 bbls. per year. To feed these mills requires 15,000,000 bushels 
of wheat annually. Our Pillsbury A mill has the largest capacity of any mill in 
the world, consuming over 32,000 bushels of wheat per day. It is supplied with the 
best machinery known to the milling trade; no expense has been spared to ensure 
perfection in all details, and it is the most perfect and costly mill on the globe. 

In ordering flour, be sure and call for ■■ Pillsbury's Best, " as interested parties 
will try and supply you with an interior ilour upon which they can make a larger profit. 



CHAS R DII.WORTf 



SAM'L. T OWENS. 

VICK-CHAIRMAN 

JOS. R. DILWORTH. 



DiLWORTH, Porter & Co. 



(LIMITED) 



PITTSBURGH. PA. 

RAILROAD-AND-BOAT 

SPIKES 



GEORGE WESTINGHOUSE, Jr., President 
ASAPH T. ROWAND, Secretary, 

ROBERT PITCAIRN, Treasui 



C. H. JACKSON, VicePres. & Gen. Manager. 
HENRY SNVDER, General Agent, 

HARVEY TILDEN, Contracting : 



CHARLES R. JOHNSON, Signal Engin 



UNION SWITCH AND SIGNAL CO. 

SOLE MANUFACTIRERS UK .XPI'ROVKD 

Railway liuerlnckiiiii. Switching # Siifiialin|.i Aiipliances, 

WITH AUTOMATIC ELECTRIC LOCKING, 

Without which no Interlocking is Safe. 



FROGS, CROSSINGS, SWITCHES AND SWITCH STANDS 




Catalogues. Plans and Estimates, with reference to about 500 apparatus in practical 
operation, will be furnished jtpon application. 




OFFICE A.XD W'ORIvS: 

Corner Garrison Alley and Duquesne Way, 
PITTSBURGH, PA., U. S. A. 



CARNEGIE BROTHERS (^ CO. 



PITTSBUPvGH^PA. 

MANUFACTl'RERS OF 

Iron AM) Sti: i: L Hi:ams , 
Cii anm: Ls. Tei:s, AnclI'S. 
Stkktikal Ik ox and Sthhi,. 

UNUSIAL SIZES AM )^HAPE.S 

• A SPECIALTY ■ 



E:^STA.13I,I^SHKD 17S: 



• Transits, Levels, Leveling Rods, Chains, • 
• Chesterman's Taphs • 

PLANIMETERS, CLYNOMETERS, Etc. 



Drawiiiir ''Boards, 
Taper. 
" fnsfniiiic'ii/s 
Pat. Joint 
Swiss 

German " 

'Brass 

'Ti.T{. Curves. 
Irreoiilar 
•Jluffiilar " 
'T Squares, 
Triangles, 
Straight Edges, 
Tarallel T^ules, 
Trotractors. 
'Tlnunb Tacks, 




India Iniis. 

Liquid India Inl^s, 

Indelible " " 

Indelible Colored Inks 

Water Colors. 

^loist 

'Brushes of all kinds, 

Ink Stabs. 

Cabinet Saucers. 

14^ hat ma us Papers, 

Protile 

Cross Section " 

'Tracing 

Transit Books, 

Lezel 

Field 

Pencils. 



CATALOGUES FREE— Send for .S4th Edition. 



Oswald McAllister, 



[226 Chestnut Street, 



PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Successor to \V. Y. MCALLISTER, formerly at :-'8 Chestnut 



* Penney lY?).niii S^^^I Gon^P^fiJ* 



SAM' I. M. l"i;i/rON. rrcsicknt. I I,. S. lU-NT, V. Tres, & Gen. Mjjr. 



1^0,1;, I S. \V. HAl.DW IN. N. V. Agt. 
\S. Fourth St., Philadelphia. \ F. \V. WOOD. Superintendent. I STKKI.TOX. P.i. /fo Broadway, New York. 



FORCINGS • , ^"'^^t'' f^°'°°° """" °'" STI"-'^I> Bi>(K)MS 

Steel per year. 



of any weijjht to order. 



- STEEL -- 

SHAFTING ... RAILS 



SLABS & BILLETS 



ll.V.M.MlCRIvD 



Hammered or Rolled. 



laiidard T IJ » 1 1 C '■'on. 76 lb 
ems of L KAILS lbs. per' 



Mint- anil Car A.xUs • • I Luuix Paitkk.ns ox Sixk-k, 

with I'\astenings, Spikes, etc. 



Kail I-asi('iiiii< 



Spikes. i:tc.. Ki 



STREET RAILS 

ASP .sr/:/:/. ccui/i.s 

TO ORDER. 



Opex- Hearth 



Bessemer 



Sprinor and MaciiiiRTy 

• STEEL- 



Interlocking Switching and Signaling Appliances 

FOR JUxNCTIONS, CROSSINGS, DRAWBRIDGES AND TER.MINALS. 
Securing Safety from Accidents with I-xonomy of Operation. 

:STEEL RAIL..^^ FROGS. RAILROAD FROGS 
AND CROSSINGS, 

IMPROVED: SWITCHES:: AND:: SWITCH:: STANDS, 

(i\ several tlifferent patterns, suited It) all uses. 

-;r Mix^nelo • Eleclric • Crossing • Si^nixl 




batltry, requires 110 winding up, works successful!)- with aUendance at 
ery remote intervals, of motierate cost, and can be set up and put in operation 
y unskilled persons. 

9^- The capacity of the Frog Switch and Signal Department is very great. Good workmanship and materials 
always guaranteed, with low prices. Fqr prices or information relating to such work address 

GEO. W. PAR.SONS, Sup't F. S. & S. Department, 

STEELTON, PA. 



F.W. DEVOE&CO. 

ESTABLISHED 1S52. 

Fulton St., Cor. of William, NEW YORK 



MAAL-FACTURERS OF 



GOAGH AND GAR G0li0RS • 



OKOUNU IN JAl^v\?\. 

ceived tlie h 
Appliances in Chicago. 



T70R tliese colors we received the highest award, the Gold Medal, at the National Exposition of Railway 



SPECIAL SHADES MADE TO ORDER. 

W/'E furnish special body colors to Pennsylvania R. R., New York. Central, New York & New Haven, Lehigh 
' ' Valley, New Jersey Central and other large Railroads. 

Special Shades for Stations, Freight Cars and Cabooses— Bridge and F^oof Paints, 



*FINE:VARN1SHES:AND:JAPANS* 

KOR COACHES AMD CARS, 

IVood Fillers, Wood Surfacers, Wood Stains. Hani Oil Finish. 



4V>^Kt niXED PAINTSN 

WE desire to call attention of consumers to the fact that we guarantee our ready-mixed paints to be made 
only of pure linseed oil and the most permanent pigments They are not "Chemical," "Rubber," "Patent," 
or "Fire-proof." We use no secret or patent method in manufacturing them by which benzine and water are 
made to serve the purpose of pure linseed oil. 

SAMPLE CARDS OF 50 DESIRABLE SHADES SENT ON REQUEST. 



We manufacture Brushes of every TID ED T T *^ "W PT "^ '"°'' Artists, Painting, Varnishing, 
description ^-^ ^^^ ^-^ ^-^ ^^^ i-V^J Gilding, Striping. 

WHITE LEAD, ZINC WHITE, COLORS IN OIL. 

^^ ARTISTS^ ffiATERIAL2SN> 

F. W. D. & CO.'S Tube Colors. F. W. D. c^ CO.'S Fine Brushes. 

F. W. D. & CO.'S Canvas. 

OUR Manufactures are used by and command the confidence of the leading artists of the country. A list of 
those indorsing our goods sent on application. 

Crayon, Sculptors' and Etcliin^ Materials. ® Drawing Papers, Mathematical Instruments. 

Correspondence Invited. 

COFFIN, DEVOE & CO., i]6 Randolph Street, CHICAGO, ILLS. 



i/lsk your SLiliimcr for Es/rrhmok' s Pens ■ 

KSTAHI.ISHEn 1S60. ■ rSF.:THK: BF.ST 

^ESTERBROOK'S^ 

• .SY "/'/•; A' /('A' ■ 



SrEcu-<:B»PcNs 



PENS KOR- 



All Business Purposes, 

Schools and Colleges, 

Book-Keeping and Correspondence, 

Rapid and Easy Writing. 



PENS IVIADE- 



In Every Degree of Fineness, 

Of Superior and Standard Quality, 

For Professional and Ornamental Work, 

Of Genuine American Manufacture. 



''Phe Esterbrook Steel Pen Co. are the manufacturers of the Esterbrook Falcon 
1 Pen No. 04S, unquestionably the best and most popular business pen in America. 

■ Li:.\ DING:. STYLES • 



Fine Points, Nos. 232, 333, 444. ,. Blunt Points, Nos. 122, 183, 1743. 

Medium Points, Nos. 14, 130, 048. ^ Fine Engrossing, Nos. 239, 267, 313. 
Elastic Pens, Nos. 126, 12S, 135. Broad Points, Nos. 161, 209, 284. 

Turned u]i Points, Nos. 256, 309, 1876. 



-^ Tlie Esterbrook Steel Pen Co. ^^^^^ 

Camden, New J ersey. 26 John St., New York. 

T/if Esterbrook Sfee/ Pens hair been adopted by the I^ouisville &" Nashville Railroad. 



.^i<R)S^ 



n > 



> 60 






to 2 

w 






^^,@^"" 




it 



y 



? 



outhern ""° " 



Fire-Proof. 



THP: SOUrHI-:RX IIOrF.I.. cor. iMtil, and Walnut .Sts., St. Louis, Mo., 

has a frontage on four clilTcrciU streets — its rotunda forming a true cross 

330 feet in length, running from North to .South, and 330 feet in length from 
East to West, si.\t\- feet in width and a t\\ent_\--foot ceiling. 



THK building is six stories high, has h\e elevators and every otiier mode 
convenience, antl it is tiie most thoroughl)' fire-proof hotel in America. 'I'l 
entire ini 

-pHK 1 

1 of i 



entire interior construction is of iron, cement and concrete 



\ proprietors so Ijeliexe in its infallibilit) , that the}' do not cari-\- one' Dollar 
nsurance on the building or furniture. ..... 



IT is the most convenient and .suitable hotel in the cit\- for public and private 
entertainment, both on account of the completeness of its ajipointments, and 
the elegance and taste of the general arrangement. .... 

IT has four hundred rooms, with a sleeping capacit}' of from ciglit hundred to 
one thousand persons. It is a perfect model of order and cleanliness. 



THR rates of board are reasonable, from tiiree to five dolJars per day. Price 
fixed from location and space occupied. ..... 




IHAKESPEARE. 



AULT & WIBORG, 

Xcttcr prces Xitboorapbic llnht? anJ) fine Darni^bcs 



FOOT OF NEW STREET, 



CINCINNATI, OHIO. 

No 26 Rose Street, New York. • BRANCH OFFICES • 



Monroe St., Chicago. 



PACine 0iu GE 



II. L. Ml.RSMAN, Pkbs. & Tkh 
11. F. PARMELEE, Vice-Pri:s. 
D 1. SKIDMORE, Sec'v. 



/■A'(>/>/c/:a:s- ./a/' .\/.i.\r/:icTrh-j:h:s- of 



Rcjincd Tul/ow and Car Grease 
• Lubrieafing Oils ■ 

Railway Lubkicatin(; Supplies A Specialty. 



!-^OHINOo^ 



SOLE M AXl'FACrrRKK 



Paris \ahT Oil, 



<^--'r' ,j.aur I'aiiions Ivliiidcr Oil, 



TRADE \ .- E^ - MARK. 



■^^ . I Ruby liiioiiio, 

Kohinoor iMvioht Car Grease, 



~ ■ ^ -r kohinoor Loacn drease 



.1/. /AY •/■- It/ fA'/Ch'S OF 

• . FAMOUS BOILER COMPO UND • • 

• . F.iMOUJ,J^TJiAM PACKING - ■ 

iir»iicii iiotiHo: OFFICE, 521 Xorth Second St. 

t 

Ft. Scott, Kas. St. Louis, Mo. 



0) 




M. Buck & Co. 

Manufaaurers and Dealers in Every Article 
used in Construding- and Operating- 
Railroads ; Steamboat, Telegraph, 
Miners', Foundry, Machinists' and 
Contractors' Supplies. 

Frogs, Crossings, Switches, Jacks, 
Tank Valves, Spikes, Bolts, Head 
Lights, Car Fixtures, Lamps, 
Lanterns, Locks, Car Brasses, etc. 
Ingot Copper and other Metals, 
Boiler Flues, Belting, Hose, Packing, 
^ Tools, Machinery, "Tanite" Emery 
Wheels and Grinders. 
207 and 209 North Third Street, 
St. Louis, Mo. 



A TRIUMPH OF MODERN CHEMISTRY IS 

The • Harden • Star- Hand Grenade. 

THE introduction of the "Hand Grenade" marks an era in the history of Fire 
Appliances. The costly, cumbersome, and complicated Chemical Kxtini,niishers 
are giving way to the simpler, cheaper and more powerful Grenade. . ■ • • 
Modern e.xperience shows that the most successful way to fight fire in its earlier 
stages is with chemicals, and it further shows that in the " Hand Grenade" is found the 
simplest and most practical means of appl) ing them. 

1 , 088 Actual Fires Extinuu i shed with tliciii i n i88,s, savin^^ Millions of Dollars. 

EXTRACTS FROM THE PUBLIC PRESS. 



A simple and powerful extinguisher 
on the premises, ready for instant 
use, is better than a fire department 
several blocks away." . . . ■ 

"'■PHIi first five minutes at a fire is 
^ belter tlum tlie next half liour." 



■'pHE Grenade may not be infallible, 
■•• but it seems nearer so than any 
other appliance." 

T TE who foils to provide his home 
^ ^ with Hand Grenades is slioulder- 
ing a fearful responsibility." ■ 




PHE record of the Harde.n Star 
■'■ Grenade is unparalleled in the 
listory of fire appliances " ■ 

'I'HE e.xtinguishment by llie Hand 
■'■ Grenade of a thou.sand actual fires, 
and scores of them, when used by 
women and children, saving millions 
of dollars worth of property, and all 
witliin twenty months, is a marvelous 
record." 



IT costs less to protect property with 
^ the Hand Grenades than with any 
other appliance, and the protection is 
the best that can be had." ■ 



Adopted by Thirteen Railway Companies, for use in Depots, Shops, etc. 

A.\/0.\c; THEM ARB 

The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, The Chicago & Grand Trunk Railroad, 

The Southern Pacific Railroad, The Michigan Central Railroad, 

The Union Pacific Railway, The C. C. C. & I. Railway, 

The Cincinnati, Hamilton & Dayton R. R., The K. C, Ft. Scott & Gulf Railroad, 

The D. & R. G. & \V. Railway. 



The Hurolitises of above Kt)n<is aggregate 7S.720 Grenades. 

The Grenades are now made in txiv Si{es— Pints and Qiiarfs. 

8®* SEND FOR D E S C R I I' I" I \' E C 1 R C L' L .\ R . 



llAlil)l-A • \\m ■ mmi ■ fire • iATlNGl'lSIIEli ■ CO. 



R p. PATTISON. President 
H. H. gross. Ges'l Manager 
C. H. ALLEN. Secretary. 



51 & 53 Dearborn Street, 

CHICAGO, ILLS. 



FOR MORE THAN TEN YEARS 



Tk 



VP 



>^^^ 



:x\V^ 



^^ 



:1V 






Has used in every Department 

THK CKI.EHRATED 

STANDARD • RAILWAY* VARNISHES. 



ON MORE THAN 




40,000 MikES-TRAGK 

^ > -OF OTHER RAILWAYS-^ m*^ 

Stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Gulf -to 
Manitoba, where these Varnishes are being used, 

THE UNIVERSAL VERDICT IS: 

''THEY ARE ALWAYS RELIABLE. 

MANUFACTURED ONLY BY THE 

CHICAGO*VARNISH-^Cd! 

Office, '^04: Hiiie Street, M 

Established 1865. V^lllCRg'O, 11 IS, 



